Martinique 2017 – warm weather (and political/social) interlude

Anse Dufour

Anse Dufour

The political insanity that is taking place in America right now has me experiencing a kind of fear, anxiety, and dread I have not experienced in my lifetime. Thus, writing a blog post on my recent trip to Martinique seems so frivolous. But I am not egotistical enough to think that such a post is going to have any effect either way.  It certainly was a warm weather break from the harsh winter weather I had been dealing with on the road trip I rushed back for this trip.

We had visited Martinique last year, after hearing about the cheap flights from Boston on Norwegian Air, via a friend of mine. Way back last August, before I knew I would be embarking on a big skiing road trip, I had purchased tickets to Martinique again, thinking a quick warm weather break from winter would be nice, and necessary.  I had wanted to go to Guadaloupe, but the flight schedule was not agreeable, so Martinique it was. Martinique is an overseas region of France, and one of the islands making up the Lesser Antilles. Probably because it is a part of France, airfares from France are likely cheap, and the result is a ton of French visitors.

Source: http://s725.photobucket.com/user/Gaetandu972/media/Forum/caribbean-map-1.jpg.html

Martinique is one of the windward islands in the Lesser Antilles. Source: http://s725.photobucket.com/user/Gaetandu972/media/Forum/caribbean-map-1.jpg.html

Norwegian Air has flights to/from Martinique from Boston every Wednesday and Sunday; the Wednesday to Sunday stay is a very suitable length of time to fully explore the small island (smaller than the US state of Rhode Island).

While small, Martinique is surprisingly diverse in its geography. The north part of the island is more mountainous and wetter, as it is more exposed to the northeasterlies (the trade winds from the Northeast). Being on the lee side, the western part of the island is quite dry; the south part of the island is dry too and has more beaches and amenities, making it more touristy.

In our previous visit, we stayed north of La Trinité, and did a lot of driving around the north part of the island and through the middle. This time, we wanted to do less driving and more swimming/eating :) Our hotel was just south of Le Francois, putting us in a very convenient location to access the south part of the island.

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The south part of Martinique. I could not find a better map online than the beat up driving map I kept.

When we were looking for hotels online, it seemed like many used a fishbowl lens to give the impression of a bigger room. Our hotel needed no such deception; the suite was enormous. A family of 6 could have easily slept there, with room to spare.

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Sunrise from our balcony (Photo: Scott McKay)

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Our room had this random safe in it. Check out how thick the safe/door walls are!

Our room had floor to ceiling bookshelves – a veritable library. The texts certainly followed a theme…

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One guess which way the owner of these books leans politically

The theme continues…

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While basic, the balcony area had a large fridge, a sink, hotplate for cooking, and all the cookware and serving ware one might need. We ate out the entire time though, consuming copious quantities of accras de morue (a ubiquitous appetizer), poulet (colombo, boucane), poisson (blaff, court bouillon, and grille), and coconut ice-cream, flan, and blanc mange. I never have 3 (or even 2) full meals a day, so I was surprised to be able to pack it all in me.

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The dining area and bar/kitchenette on our balcony

We thought we would do a “quick” drive around the perimeter of the southwest peninsula since we had missed doing that on our last visit.

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We stumbled across Anse Dufour only because it looked like a good view from the road, so we descended, and found this great swimming beach. We ended up coming here all three days.

Anse Dufour

Anse Dufour

We saw a lot of fishing boats and fisherman, and traps as I was swimming. The protected bay of Anse Dufour seems to make it amenable for fishing, and the port capital of the island, Fort-de-France is not a long boat ride away for fisherman to bring their catch to.

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Photo: Scott McKay

The water here is very popular amongst snorkelers, and we would see boats coming in with snorkelers, dropping them off to snorkel around and have lunch at one of the restaurants on the beach. While water visibility was good, I did not see anything of interest.

As we drove around the peninsula, we saw the Rocher du Diamant. I guess it catches people’s attention because it is sitting on its own out in the water. It was occupied at one point and had some significance in the Napoleonic Wars.

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Photo: Scott McKay

As you drive into Le Diamant, you see a very long beach; it is hard not to pull over and check it out. The beach was Grande Anse du Diamant, a 2.5 mile stretch of beach. Strong winds make it good for windsurfing; not so much for swimming.

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The Rocher du Diamant from Grande Anse du Diamant

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Looking down Grande Anse du Diamant. The sand is a dark volcanic sand.

The weather was more variable on our third and final visit to Anse Dufour. The clouds were doing cool things.

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Photo: Scott McKay

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Photo: Scott McKay

Anse Noir is located around a very small peninsula from Anse Dufour. What makes it noteworthy is that it is a black sand beach located so close to a white sand one.

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Anse Noire

We swam out far enough at Anse Dufour to see Mont Pelee. It was cool to catch another perspective of it from the lookout to Anse Noire.

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Mont Pelée, the highest point on the island

A more secluded beach we frequented on our last visit is Anse Trabaud. A very rough road and fee keep the crowds away. We enjoyed returning there, but the nice swimming at Anse Dufour and shitty drive to Anse Trabaud made the former more appealing.

I have mixed feelings on Martinique as a destination suited for people of limited mobility. This is not a third world area by any stretch of the imagination, but sidewalks are very narrow and in some places quite uneven, making them tricky to negotiate if you were in a wheelchair, say. I was able to get around perfectly fine, plodding up/down steps and slopes where they were. The public restroom situation can give me some anxiety because of my SCI. While not the most well-lit or comfortable, most towns and larger beaches will have them.

I returned having overindulged. After a Chinese New Year Dinner this past Sunday, and a full day to sort things out, it is off to Chamonix tonight!

This loop closed

And thus brings an end to, as someone put it, the mother of all road trips. In total, I travelled 7,896.3 miles. That is more than I usually put on a car in a year! The drive back was fairly speedy, but felt very tiring. Maybe it is because driving East feels like stepping back (is it a coincidence that people tend to say “back East?”), versus the feeling of liberation heading to the wide open spaces of the West. Driving into fog, cold sleet, and rain did not help alleviate this feeling.

Miles travelled on this trip: 7,896.3 miles

I thought skiing at Snowbird in the morning would be a good way to jolt me awake for the first leg of the drive back to Cambridge, MA. Overnight and continuing snowfall cemented this decision. At least that was the plan. And as we see from this trip, plans inevitably get thwarted.

The Snowbird aerial tram has the beefiest arm I have ever seen

The Snowbird aerial tram has the beefiest arm I have ever seen

Conditions were a stark contrast to my warm, bluebird day at Snowbird, but the fresh snow was great.

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White-out conditions

White-out conditions make for excellent photos

Yet again, outrigger issues cut my day almost the moment it got started. Snow/water kept getting into the spring mechanism that allows me to flip the outrigger blade up and down. I went into the cafeteria to get hot water to temporarily fix the issue, but it came back as soon as I did a run. I was pissed because I had gone through the trouble of getting up very early to get first tram and spent the money on a lift ticket, only to have equipment failure ruin the day.

However, I had learned the previous day that my new job’s start date had been delayed till March 1st. This immediately made me want to use this opportunity to travel to Colorado to ski at the places I had intended to go to on this trip, but had to forgo because of the delays caused by all the mishaps. So it was easier to roll with the situation knowing that I had an opportunity to get more skiing in later in February.

I knew that I wanted/needed to get back to Cambridge by Sunday evening, but I was not entirely sure where I was aiming for this first day. Lincoln and Omaha, NE were certainly too far. I re-entered probably one of my favourite states, Wyoming, driving through and reminiscing fondly about all the times I have spent in this state. Interestingly, I crossed the Continental Divide on two occasions as I drove East on Interstate-80. I had never driven through Nebraska; there was a similar peace to it that I experienced when I was driving West through Saskatchewan. Seeing large drilling and mining equipment, and a wind-turbine blade transported is really cool, too. I made pretty good progress and decided to bed down for the evening in North Platte, NE, which was a fairly sizable town. Most importantly, the town had places to get coffee for the next morning. I’m normally not a big Starbucks fan, but I will be the first to admit that their in-store and packet Pike’s Place coffee has gotten me through many a cold morning and drive on this trip.

Day 1: Solitude Ski resort to North Platte, NE

Day 1: Solitude Ski resort to North Platte, NE

Like the drive westward, the second day is the toughest driving day by far for me. It was a combination of poor sleep, very boring terrain and scenery, the toll of the first day of driving, and accumulation of all the days of driving on this trip. I had to make numerous stops at gas stations/rest-stops to nap, and buy horrible snacks to eat to keep me away on the drive. I don’t think I can look at Chex-Mix or Muddy Buddies for quite awhile. Though both are very flat states, Nebraska felt wide open and peaceful, while Iowa just felt bleak. Illinois was a fairly brief interlude between Iowa and Ohio. The nice thing about driving on a weekend was avoiding traffic around metropolitan areas, like Chicago.

I became more alert at around 2.30pm and found myself going strong for the Toledo, OH area, which would put me in a good position for the third and last day of driving. It’s funny how the relative density of the East Coast becomes so apparent as you travel farther East.

Day 2: North Platte, NE to Perrysburg, OH

Day 2: North Platte, NE to Perrysburg, OH (just outside/next to Toledo, OH)

The final push. I woke up very early on this third day feeling very alert. Again, it could be knowing this would be my final day of driving and that it would not be a marathon driving day. It is somewhat amusing that a driving day of under 12 hours now feels on the shorter side! While it was dreary and wet, temperatures were far above freezing, which made for quick travel. Having such closely spaced rest areas across New York and Massachusetts is both weird (like, why the need?) and quite nice, knowing my next bathroom/soft drink/gasoline refuel opportunity is coming up soon.

Day 3: Perrysburg, OH to Cambridge, MA

Day 3: Perrysburg, OH to Cambridge, MA

It was hard not to let anxieties about unpacking and unloading the car, and washing and packing for my next trips (Martinique and Chamonix) creep in. It would have been nice to have trips spaced out a bit more, but I felt the need to jam in as much fun during this time I have of not working.

So would I do this again? I got to ski in some really awesome places with great conditions; I got to experience familiar places in new ways (e.g. Alberta, Idaho, and Wyoming in the winter); I got to see totally new places, like inner British Columbia, America’s Heartland (Nebraska, Iowa), Saskatchewan, North Dakota; drive across the continent and back; experience extended periods of deep cold like I had never done so before and travel/deal with it; learn how my body and equipment responds to extended skiing road trips (the good, the bad, and the ugly); and all this solo. My main complaint was the abysmal skiing/driving ratio. Driving was a great way to see Canada and the US, lug all my shit around, and have the freedom to drive wherever, whenever, depending on conditions and circumstances. But that time spent driving could have been spent skiing or climbing. Granted, I was operating under a very compressed timeline. If I had another month or two on the road, I might consider driving again. But, more likely, I would choose to take two trips and fly (one city in Canada for one trip e.g. Calgary, the other city being Salt Lake City or Denver) rent a car for a month or a few weeks each time, and do a loop. What I certainly will do next time is:

  • At the very least, carry plenty of spare outrigger parts. I had some spare parts with me on this trip, but they were the wrong parts; not the ones that kept failing. Now I am much more aware of the parts of the outriggers that are most likely to fail for me. Transporting a second spare pair of outriggers would not be possible with air travel.
  • Now I know what the causes are for my lower right leg pain that was bad enough to stop me from skiing for awhile, I can get on a foot, leg, and hip strengthening program months in advance of the start of ski season.
  • Perhaps be less ambitious in how many places I wanted to go to. Driving from place to place was very tiring and made things not as relaxing/restful as they could have been. But again, I was operating under a very compressed schedule and eager to “make the most” of my time.

Now it is time for some R&R in Martinique this week, a welcome change to the rain, sleet, and 50 mph winds in Boston last night/today.

 

US Winter Paralympic race training with National Abilities Center (NAC)

Today, I had the opportunity to ski with alpine skiers trying to make the 2018 US Winter Paralympic team at Park City, the site of the 2002 Winter Olympics. It was a very informative experience as I had never even swung myself around race gates before. Today, the team was working on GS (Giant Slalom), so were out in their skinny, long GS skis. I found out the minimum height for GS skis for women, regardless of height and weight, is 183cm. And of course, it gets longer for Super-G and downhill events. This is a disadvantage for the smaller and shorter girls like myself, but why should I stop pursuing sports that I am not genetically pre-dispositioned for? :p

The prestigious and luxurious NAC double-wide trailer that houses lockers and equipment and changing space

The prestigious and luxurious NAC double-wide trailer that houses lockers and equipment and changing space

Ski resorts can be a dangerous place, I guess

Ski resorts can be a dangerous place, I guess

Erik, the Head Alpine coach, had given me information on what to expect today, but I still was not sure what that would entail. The first part of the session from 9am to 11.15am or so was spent warming up and little drills. This was followed by a 15 min or so bathroom break before heading out to the race course. At the race course, Erik and Shannon, a visiting coach from Australia, had us go down one by one while they videoed us and gave us verbal feedback on the course.

Racing down icy black runs is not exactly my idea of fun

Racing down icy black runs is not exactly my idea of fun

I was very conservative because I really did not want to cause further injury to the right leg. The overwhelming feeling I had was, I really like ripping it when I’m just skiing for fun because no one is making me do it. If I were to race, it would feel a lot like a job (which it would be to some degree), and that would make it no fun at all.

Then there is the risk of another injury. The video below shows a sit-skier with the Mexican team who was in the recent Sochi Winter Olympics. It turns out he had a bad crash and sustained an even higher level of spinal cord injury (T10-ish) than his previous one (L-level). He is holding back a lot in the video below because he is hurting, and also basically learning how to ski again with his reduced function. Why would he want to ski again? I guess people ask me the same thing with respect to climbing: Aren’t you worried about getting hurt again? It’s about living and feeling alive; yet, climbing and its risks (which, to me, are much lower) are acceptable to me, whereas hurtling down and icy slope to beat a clock/other people is not.

The day ended with brief video analysis. I was surprised that the video analysis was as quick as it was. But I suppose these guys see each other most every week day.

Another source of hesitancy, besides my personality and motivation, is the financial side of things. Being poor to freeze my ass off in lycra to ski down ice is not terribly appealing. Sure, you could piece together an existence, with grants, scholarships, jobs, and a low cost of living. But any other disposable income or saving for retirement? Forget about it. I am not ruling the possibility of racing entirely out, but I know for a fact I have a lot more fun free-skiing.

Well, this round of skiing is coming to an end. I am hoping to squeeze in a morning ski tomorrow before having to start my drive back to Cambridge, MA tomorrow afternoon. I can’t say I am too excited about three days of sitting on my ass all day long driving. While equipment and physical setbacks made me have to skip out on Colorado and New Mexico this time round, there is a chance I can make a dedicated CO ski trip between when I return from Chamonix and the start of my new job. Of course this depends on a number of factors, including my body. Such a trip would make me very happy as I would get to return to a place I love very much (Telluride) and see friends there.

Return to Utah

“We can let the circumstances of our lives harden us so that we become increasingly resentful and afraid, or we can let them soften us and make us kinder. You always have the choice.” –Dalai Lama

Looking over Mineral Basin

Looking over Mineral Basin

Over the course of this trip (perhaps “expedition” is the proper word: unpredictable, setbacks, recoveries, lots of travel, and even some skiing (credit: Scott)), resentment and frustration about shit going wrong and why (related to my spinal cord injury) surfaced many times. Sometimes it felt like I was swept away by these negative emotions. But the above quote reminds me that I do have a choice in how I respond and react.

So why did I choose to return to the Salt Lake City area after such a disastrous stay 10 days earlier? Part of me wanted to redeem myself/SLC; part of me wanted to take up this opportunity to hang out and experience a training day with the US Paralympic Alpine Ski team. I did consider booking it to Telluride to ski there and Taos, before having to drive back to Cambridge, MA on Friday afternoon at the latest, but conditions were not so much more superior to make the abysmal driving/skiing ratio worth it. SLC was relatively close (a 5 hour drive from Jackson, WY), and I knew I could get in skiing at a number of resorts there.

A glimpse of the moon

A glimpse of the moon

What a difference bluebird skies and warm temperatures can make to ones mood and skiing experience. Despite no recent snow fall, the coverage at Snowbird was excellent and decent snow was to be found if you went a little hunting, and also because the aspects of the slopes mean they don’t get totally baked (e.g. like in Jackson). Utah resorts typically have a much later season, so having this much snow so early in the season has been unusual for them, and more than a few locals have said this is the best coverage they have seen for this time of year in awhile. The warmer temperatures made for a warmer, less stiff boot, which helped the lower leg pain too. I’ve been having to diligently ice, NSAID, massage etc. to get through each ski day, but the leg held up decently today and I managed to stay out longer than expected.

On the way back from the ski resort, I was stopped by a police officer and let off with a warning for speeding (he was very nice about it, as I was just following the flow of traffic). He asked if I was a seasonal worker. I’m glad I look like enough of a ski bum/have enough cred to be mistaken for one :)

This is a terrible idea.

This is a terrible idea.

Testing continued, regaining mojo, human contact

It was another bluebird day at Jackson Hole, and conditions were very similar to yesterday to continue to test the leg. I was in no rush to get first lift due to the extreme inversion effect here. Today’s temperature difference between the base and top was still 25 to 30 degF but I stayed up high the entire time in the sun and warmth.

I started later to avoid the extreme inversion effect like yesterday

Jackson Hole refers to the entire valley you see below.

The steroid seems to have taken fuller effect, and combined with diligent icing yesterday and anti-inflammatories ingested, the leg was feeling closer to its normal, strong self. While I know I should work on not having my mood be so dependent on my physical abilities/state, it felt really really good to be able to open it up and rip it.

It was perhaps not the smartest idea on an injured leg, but I could not resist doing the Alta Chutes, which are considered one of the most challenging in-bounds terrain.

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Cliff areas for good measure

Cliff areas for good measure

It is always nice to receive flattering compliments from other skiers, but today, I was particularly touched by a teenage girl who came up to me on the traverse to get to Alta Chutes. She told me how amazing I was and asked me how I moved so fast and I asked her if she was a ski-racer (her setup looked like it), and she said yes. She said she just wanted to come up and talk to me, and I thanked her very much for her kindness. I was just quite moved that someone would go out of there way to want to talk to me.

I also shared quite a few words with a trio of Swiss guys (I had asked them if they were Swiss because one of them had a “Gryon” (a municipality of the canton Vaud) patch on his pack. And then skied with a Jackson local. I think because I have been on my own so much on this trip, all this human interaction today played a role in bolstering my mood, along with the improvement in the leg.

Next stop, either another morning in Jackson or swinging through Grand Targhee and then back down to Salt Lake City, where I can avenge my terrible time there due to this injury.

Testing the leg at Jackson Hole

Extreme temperature inversion today

Extreme temperature inversion today

Today was the litmus test to see if I could ski or have to cut this trip short. The answer is not entirely clear, as I am not sure whether it was the injury, a crash, or conditions that made me ski for only a short period of time today.

What is unequivocal however, is that today were the coldest temperatures I have ever skied in. The temperature at the base of the mountain was -32 degF (-36 degC) when I started. Quite uncivilized.

-32 degF = -36 degC. You know things are fucked when Fahrenheit and Celsius temps converge

-32 degF = -36 degC. You know things are fucked when Fahrenheit and Celsius temps converge

The inversion effect on the mountain was the most extreme I had ever experienced. There was a 30 degF plus difference between mountain top and base.

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A sea of clouds above the valley floor

I started off very conservatively, and while things were far from pain-free, I managed to stay in control the first few test runs on the groomers. Bear in mind, I really did not open myself up into full GS mode because that outside edge was still giving me problems. I was certainly not carving properly, and doing the sliding/skid on that side, to my dismay; and groomers when you can’t totally rip it just are not that fun. I crashed going at a decent speed and hurt my leg there, but after a moments rest and unbuckling my boot to give the leg some relief, I decided to test things out more on more interesting terrain. I tried not to feel bad that all the fresh snow was gone, and every thing was very hard from being tracked out and from the cold.

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This stuff is usually pretty mellow for me, but my leg made me approach things cautiously and without confidence :(

The lack of new snow made conditions quite challenging for me, because of the impact of the hard snow on the leg.

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Tracked out, hard snow. It wasn’t that much fun, but it was nice to be out under the blue sky.

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The crash really did me in because I was kept falling any time I needed to hold that outside edge. When I am face climbing (versus crack-climbing) I tend to trend to the right before having to return back to the route if it is to the left, because I am always leading with that right side. Today, I found myself skiing down to the left (inside edge) as much as possible until I would have to stop, sit, and flip the ski around to change direction. It was a bit sad.

Super tracked out under the tram

Super tracked out under the tram

I will continue to test the leg out on Monday (Martin Luther King Day), but will likely be relegated to easy groomers, which is really not what you go to Jackson Hole for. I have certainly become familiar with the town and the surrounding area, and it was wonderful to come back to a place I love but had never been to in the wintertime. But I’m ready to hit the road soon and move on.

Phelps Lake snowshoe

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While I waited for my cortisone shot from yesterday to take effect and test skiing out tomorrow (Sunday), I decided to check out the Granite Canyon Trailhead area near Moose, WY, also within the Grand Teton National Park. Like Thursday’s snowshoe, the plowed road ends and you can snowshoe or cross-country ski in. I picked this starting point because it was not a long drive from me, but also known for being very quiet. Indeed, I had the entire place to myself and did not encounter a single person on my snowshoe to Phelps Lake. The only downside to such a quiet location was that I found myself having to break trail a lot of the way, but this was a good way to stay warm on this cold day. The temperature at the start of my snowshoe was -15 degF (-26 degC)and when I returned a few hours later, it was still negative Fahrenheit (-18 degC). I probably seem like a cold weather wimp, but I actually have no problems with these kinds of temperatures when the humidity is low.

A colder day today

A colder day today

Even though the pace of this kind of activity is slower than I like it to be all the time, the surroundings remind me of the serenity and sense of home these mountains bring to me. I would seriously consider making Jackson Hole home, or a part-time home, but employment opportunities and the health care infrastructure are rather poor here, and I would like to be closer to a major airport for international travel.

A slightly overcast morning

A slightly overcast morning

Quiet.

Quiet.

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I had to veer off and break trail soon after this point

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Phelps Lake was the reward for the solitude and breaking trail.

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Phelps Lake and Mount Hunt and Prospector’s Mountain behind it

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Prospector’s Mountain (11,240′)

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I came across this van today and had to smile. Looks like someone else had the same idea as me…

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A familiar looking set of stickers…

They must be as excellent a planner as I am if they are Swiss. They have probably been better on the execution part though :-/

I left this note on their van :)

I left this note on their van :)

I think the leg is doing better as it was not hurting as much as it did on Thursday’s snowshoe. I am keeping my fingers crossed tomorrow’s test on ski (singular) will be a smashing success.

The Peace of Wild Things

I needed to get out and recharge my very depleted batteries from the last fortnight of misfortunes. One of my favourite poems describes the sense of peace and home this morning in Grand Teton National Park.

A familiar place...

A familiar place…

When despair for the world grows in me
and I wake in the night at the least sound
in fear of what my life and my children’s lives may be,
I go and lie down where the wood drake
rests in his beauty on the water, and the great heron feeds.
I come into the peace of wild things
who do not tax their lives with forethought
of grief. I come into the presence of still water.
And I feel above me the day-blind stars
waiting with their light. For a time
I rest in the grace of the world, and am free.

–Wendell Berry

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The light changes so quickly.

I knew that there was going to be a lot of snow but I didn’t realize just how deep it would be. It would make travel slow-going.

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The snow bank came close to my shoulders

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The end of the plowed road and start of the snow-shoeing.

I was eager for the sun to hit me.

I was eager for the sun to hit me.

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Which it did.

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An errant side track that led to nowhere. It was one of the few spots where there was an existing track of some kind.

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I was quite interested in the touring possibilities in that gully.

Because of all the new snow, breaking trail was very tiring for me. I had to stop far far short of my original destination because I knew I had to save my left leg for the return journey back to the car, and also my lower right leg muscle was aching and I did not want to reduce the chances of skiing any further.

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My tracks.

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There was little danger of me exceeding the speed limit.

PT and orthopedic specialist appointments tomorrow – fingers crossed these will yield (fast) dividends so that I can ski.

Lower leg problems identified and treatment plan – one activity causing problems for another

While I am trying not to slip into that negative space (too much) of feeling bad that I am not able to ski, I am getting answers and taking control of the situation, which always makes you feel better. It is unfortunate that I am getting to experience Jackson Hole in this way, but it is also good to be getting treatment in a place where there are so many athletes and so many health professionals who not only are knowledgeable about skiers/climbers, but understand the importance of these activities to us, and also trust our knowledge of our own bodies and information we have to give them.

I tried not to feel too bad waking up to all this new snow on my car this morning.

I tried not to feel too bad waking up to all this new snow on my car this morning.

Rolling into JH resort this morning

Rolling into JH resort this morning

Pre- 8AM tram line on a powder day (I think the tram eventually opened at 9.30am or so)

Pre- 8AM tram line on a powder day (I think the tram eventually opened at 9.30am or so)

I went to the boot-fitter at the resort base as scheduled. I already knew that the Peroneus longus was the muscle that was hurting and I  have a history of right foot instability and very high arches; but I was interested to see what the boot-fitter would see. This is what he found:

  1. My boot-shell is a good fit for me (this is a good thing to hear after dropping money on ski boots!)
  2. I have a very very flexible right foot without much padding (e.g. he was able to feel all my metatarsals). It was pretty funny seeing this very calm person’s expression bug out when he moved my foot around
  3. My current off-the-shelf-orthotic in my ski boot is good but could be better
  4. There is nothing bad about my ski stance. I do not have strangely shaped tibia (bow-legged), my knee does not drop in, or anything like that

Given the above, there were not a ton of drastic options. But after discussion, we decided the best we could do was to:

  1. Get a custom orthotic to prevent my mid-foot from rolling around. While my current orthotic prevents me from sliding forward/backward and heel-lift, there was still a fair bit of lateral motion causing strain on my peroneus. He charged me half-price, which was nice. I am so used to having to pay what seems like “double” (even though I know it does not scale that way) for things related to my feet/legs.
  2. Heat the boot shell (this was done when I purchased the boot) and stand in it so that the boot can even better conform to the shape of my leg.

Clearly these are things that are not going to fix the acute issue. But I hope, and think, it will help going forward in the longer term.

The next stop was the physiotherapist. I really liked her because she said, Yeah, you know exactly what is going on. What I learned from her was:

  1. I have a “CRAZY flexible” right foot. Again, it was slightly amusing to see her remark how ridiculous it was, except that in this case this is causing problems and not some cool party trick I can show off.  Which leaves the number of cool party tricks I know at zero.
  2. The muscles under my arch are not strong. At all.

I was not aware of my super-human right foot, but I do know #1 stems from all the climbing I do with it and how I force and contort it into all sorts of strange positions. My right foot is also doing a ton of work stabilizing my right leg when I am skiing, climbing etc.. I know I ask a lot out of it and push it, but I did not know these would be the consequences. A case of one sport (climbing) causing problems in another sport (skiing). My indoor and sport-climbing shoe is also quite downturned and aggressive, farther exacerbating/causing these arch weakness issues.

I had some soft-tissue work done, and also ultra-sound to break up any possible starts to tendonitis. I am also starting my prescribed strengthening exercises, doing my hot-cold contrast therapy, and things to get the inflammation down. We also agreed that it was still worthwhile going to the orthopedic specialist on Friday to get the cortisone shot to reduce the inflammation. Her answer would have been different if I lived here, but given my situation and goals, getting a kick-start seemed like a good idea. We will have a better idea on Friday whether I can  ski on the remainder of this trip.

This adaptive business is very tiring some times and I have ambivalent feelings about the term and how it can be sometimes used euphemistically. Yes, we are adapting to our physical limitations, but these adaptations are not normal. They create problems in other sports, and other areas in our lives. So to sugar-coat this term, I think, is slightly disingenuous. Even as I write this, I feel slightly ungrateful, because there are many assets that are handed to us just by luck of the draw: family, socio-economic circumstances we are born into, a particular ethnic group, the place(s) we grow up, physical ability. Yet this strikes a particular nerve because, for the most part, most people are born with functioning, “normal” human bodies. Questioning what is fair and not fair about such things is futile, mostly (social justice issues are a different matter), but it is hard not to some times. I guess we just keep pushing on and make the most of what we have.

I have the okay to some easy snow-shoeing so I am keeping my fingers crossed roads will be clear for me to drive to Grand Teton National Park tomorrow to clear the mind and body a bit.