Reached the Promised Land – driving across the continent (Day 1)

Well, I reached Canmore, Alberta after three days of driving. I have never driven across the continent, or for more than a day even, before – it was an interesting but very tiring experience. I was glad to reach my destination in the prescribed time I had set for myself, but driving for ~15 hours each day was definitely taxing on the body and mind. I’m writing this a few days late, just because it has taken me some time to sort other things out, like skiing, dealing with logistics and unpacking (for this first stop).

My goal for Day 1 was to get as close to Chicago as possible, although I had been told reaching Cleveland, OH was a realistic goal. The route took me along the Great Lakes (Buffalo, Niagra Falls, Erie (PA)). Fortunately, temperatures were cold, so the roads were dry. There was some Lake effect snow that made for an atmospheric interlude.

Flurries around the Great Lakes.

Flurries around the Great Lakes.

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I’ll get to you, Canada, farther down the road…

The estimated drive time is not indicative of the actual drive time, but on this day, I made good progress.

The estimated drive time is not indicative of the actual drive time, but on this day, I made good progress.

Being on large interstates (I-90 and I-80) meant that there were frequent rest stops and opportunities to refuel the car and myself. It made for easy and relaxing driving. I ended up bedding down for the night at a rest stop near South Bend, IN. I deliberately chose to sleep surrounded by the dulcet hum of large long-haul trucks under the very bright mood lighting of the truck parking area. I am very aware of being a small female sleeping alone in my car, but I felt like the best choice was to sleep amongst truckers versus being the only car (or one of very few cars) in a car rest stop/pull-out.

It was cold. Thank goodness for having a very warm sleeping bag.

It was cold. Thank goodness for having a very warm sleeping bag.

I managed to get some sleep in the car. I had set aside the length of the car behind the drivers seat for me, and it was the perfect length. I even had a duffel bag at the foot of my feet and there was still room, although I do tend to sleep curled up in the foetal position. It would certainly be a little less comfortable for someone of taller stature; they would likely have to sleep diagonally. I wanted to get an early start for the next day as I wanted to get a lot of driving in to make the third, and final, day manageable and have me arriving in Canmore not too late, giving me time to unload the car etc. I have a tendency to stress out a little about planning and logistics. I am good at it, but it does occupy my mind a fair bit, especially on big trips like this.

 

Last day in Hong Kong

If you cannot tell, I am just a bit taken with something as ordinary as a reservoir. So much so that I wanted my last morning here to be spent walking to Tai Tam Reservoir(s) for the third day in a row.

Last morning looking up at the Mount Parker Observatory

Last morning looking up at the Mount Parker Observatory

A view from the walk down from Mount Butler towards the reservoirs

A view from the walk down from Mount Butler towards the reservoirs

There are a few reasons for why I think I am so enamored. It is a place that I was driven across all the time I was living in Hong Kong (I was not old enough for a drivers license then), but never actually walked to and experienced; it is something literally in my back yard that feels like a newly discovered treasure; engineering is cool; and I am so so grateful and appreciative that through many factors, including mostly my own efforts, I can do the couple of hours walk over.

The Upper Reservoir was the first phase of the project, and built between 1883 to 1888. The square structure is the Valve House.

The Upper Reservoir was the first phase of the project, and built between 1883 to 1888. The square structure is the Valve House.

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Engineering is cool.

Circa 1880s.

Circa 1880s.

I can’t try to set running speed records anymore, but I think I can still experience the place like most people. Each of the three times I have done this walk have felt very different. Being a week day morning, I pretty much had the place to myself.

The part of the reservoir visible from the road

The part of the reservoir visible from the road, that I grew up seeing.

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This sign marks the “end” of my walk

The rest of my day was spent in the side of Hong Kong that more people are familiar with, or at least associate with the city: negotiating suits, skyscrapers, shopping malls, stinky wet markets, designer shops, and crowds. I love that all this can co-exist in this really special place called Hong Kong. I hope it will not be long before I return.

And now, I am off to the frigid Northeast United States, where temperatures of -20 degC await me. It will be a hectic few days while I prepare for a weekend of skiing, and then an approximately 1.5 month long skiing and ice-climbing road trip.

My life is certainly one of contrasts.

A glorious day with an old friend (Tai Tam Reservoirs)

Today was a glorious day to meet up with an old friend and experience a place so fully that it makes your heart swell with joy and gratitude. Connie and I go back to primary school, and had not seen each other in over 16 years. Yet when I first saw her again, it felt like not a single thing had changed. She looked like her youthful, happy self, except even more accomplished and beautiful now :)

We decided to do a hike and as usual, I had my doubts about what it might be like after my accident and all. My doubts were erased as the conversation and path passed freely and easily, even after all this life. Don’t get me wrong; a lot has changed in my physical situation and circumstances. But another friend who I met up with a few days ago said: “It was great seeing you too, and despite all the difficulties you’ve faced I’m glad that you haven’t changed much at all.” I find this simultaneously hard to believe and reassuring.

Looking down on the Tai Tam Reservoirs

Looking down on the Tai Tam Reservoirs

16 years later, and it honestly seems like we have not aged, at least on the surface.

16 years on and it feels like we haven't changed

16 years on and it feels like we haven’t changed. We are both a tiny bit sweaty from the steps up to this point.

Looking down on the Tai Tam Reservoirs

Looking down on the Tai Tam Reservoirs – pano view

By one of the reservoirs

By one of the reservoirs

We actually ended the walk by taking a bus, followed by the MTR to, of all places, Le Pain Quotidien, a cafe that I first experienced in Paris this past Fall. It seems like a small thing, but to be able to go from one amazing city to amazing city, and experience the same cafe, yet with a different person in different circumstances, makes me feel the world is both small and vast, and entirely wondrous.

An excellent hair day, as usual.

An excellent hair day, as usual.

The walk was so nice I went back the next morning. I took a different route since I departed from my home. From the terminus, I caught a mini-bus to take me to Chai Wan MTR station, and then took the MTR and then another bus home. It’s pretty awesome that I can do this without needing a personal car. In all my years of living in Hong Kong before, this was the first time I took the MTR from Chai Wan MTR station!!

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The to Tai Tam Road (the end of the hike) from my home

Gentle urban beauty

As I was walking this morning, I found it interesting and curious that even though I have spent and spend a lot of time in places with dramatic landscapes, I am still extremely taken by the gentle urban (*) beauty near my home in Hong Kong.

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On the trail to Mount Parker road

Hong Kong’s beauty has so many dimensions to it. I am so glad I can see it in my morning waks.

I love that I can see all sorts of beauty in my morning walks. This was from a different morning.

Same trail, different view, different morning.

I went for a stroll on the Peak with my Dad yesterday. It was an overcast day, but the clouds were doing cool things.

View from The Peak, Hong Kong

View from The Peak, Hong Kong

(*) Not two adjectives commonly used together.

An insane travel season and a cross-country skiing road trip

September to February has been, and will be, an amazing and slightly insane travel season. From September to December, I did round-trips to Paris; Salt Lake City/City of Rocks, ID; Red Rocks, NV; and Hong Kong.

December to mid-Febrary are looking like this:

– Boston <-> SKIING ROAD TRIP (see below)
– Boston <-> Martinique
– Boston <-> Chamonix

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I am using the time between when I return from Hong Kong to Francophile lands, to do something I have always wanted to do: a skiing road trip across America! Hopefully I’ll fit in a little bit of ice-climbing too. My itinerary will be dependent on weather, but tentative plan is based around the places that are a part of the Mountain Collective Pass.

I will return to Cambridge from Hong Kong, outfit my car for sleeping, storage, and the driving; dress up and go to a holiday party; ski in Vermont the next day hopefully, and then try and hit the road as soon as possible after that. I absolutely love planning for and preparing for big trips.  But there is a lot to cram in in a very short period of time.

My rough itinerary, subject to weather etc. is:
Cambridge, MA -> Lake Louise, AB -> Kicking Horse, BC -> Revelstoke, BC -> Whistler, BC -> Sun Valley, ID -> Salt Lake City -> Jackson, WY -> Aspen/Snowmass, CO -> Telluride, CO -> Taos, NM

The tentative plan. I may choose to go anti-clockwise instead.

The tentative plan. I may choose to go anti-clockwise instead.

I do not think I will be able to make it to Tahoe, given time constraints and without incurring enough speeding tickets to make me a fugitive from many states. Which sucks because I miss Squaw and Kirkwood. I’ll try and make it happen. I am going to get my ass kicked the first few days. I cannot wait to see friends in many of these places.

I am so excited about skiing and ice-climbing in/around Chamonix with my friend Yves in February! I have heard such amazing things about the place. It will be interesting to see how I handle the gnarlier lift-served terrain. I actually learned to ski in Switzerland when I was 12 years old, so maybe this counts as a home-coming of sorts? :)

Pins I collected as an excited 12 year old in Switzerland.

Pins I collected as an excited 12 year old in Switzerland.

I will try my best to document this once in a lifetime experience.

So. Much. Stoke.

Lock-off season begins here

I packed my Metolius rock rings, having never used them before, but thinking they would be a good thing to have while I am otherwise not doing any climbing during my stay in Hong Kong. Part of my walk this morning involved scouting out places where I could hang these rock rings. It was not that easy. Eventually, I settled on Braemar Hill Playground (Braemar Hill is the hill behind our home, and where my primary school is located).

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The setup is far from ideal, but it had to do for this morning.

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The red circular things are actually not entirely stable.

It would be better if I could find something where the rings can hang more freely and without vertical bars on either side of them so that my elbows can move out.

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It never hurts to be reminded of the alphabet.

My finger and upper-body strength are atrociously weak right now. I started off with the simple 10 minute workout Metolius recommends; and even that was a bit of a struggle with the two-finger holds. I hope I won’t be totally useless for ice this season.

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I pass.

I am going to do more scouting today to find a better setup.

Long-distance flying feels like death

Well, this blog would be nothing if it were not for me reporting on the crappy times as well as the good ones. I know long distance flying takes its toll on anybody, not just people with my physical issues, and as we age. But it really does feel like I have a harder go of things, especially as I recall how relatively “easy” long-distance flying was before my accident. I was initially optimistic around the first 9 hours into the flight from Newark to Hong Kong. The compression socks I wear, even though I am neither pregnant or diabetic, were working remarkably well, I thought! The back was not especially painful, the leg was not acting up; I was seated in a bulkhead aisle seat with no crying babies or snoring neighbours to boot. Yay! And then. Time. Stood. Still. Nothing I could do for the next 8 hours could distract me from the aching, nerve pain, inability to sleep, and inability to concentrate on anything else except my inability to concentrate on anything else. The 6:58 hr mark seemed especially still. Since the seat next to me had freed up (I was in the middle three-seat section on the 777), the guy next to me had moved one seat over. But there were no arm-rests to lift. So I did something I have never done before, and that is, curl up and lie down on the floor in front of those two seats with my head on my backpack. All the while thinking, who the fuck knows what has been on this floor but I do not fucking care. It was not a successful strategy.

Arriving in Hong Kong and the breezy airport experience was a brief respite to all this. Deplaning to reaching baggage claim took 5 minutes. If only all immigration experiences could be like this. Certainly, this process is so expedited because I do have a HK Identity card which you insert into a slot, pass through a set of glass doors that then close behind you, have a thumb scanned, have a second set of glass doors open in front of you, and then you are on your way.

It seems like 36 hours is the magic number for recovery time for me. I really was pretty much a vegetable for that first day and a half, barely managing to shuffle around, declining to go out, and just lying down and sleeping an awful lot. I did walk past some old tennis courts where lots of kids were either having lessons, practicing, or competing (there were some feelings around class, expats, and elitism that were also conjured up, but that is a much longer blog post). Tennis was one of my main sports growing up, and I was very good at it, if I do say so myself. Watching these teenagers hit the ball hard and move around the court quickly did make me feel a bit sad that I could not do that any more. But I think there is also more acceptance than before. Maybe it is because I can tell myself that hitting a ball back and forth across a net and chasing it around is silly. This pretty much characterizes most of the sports I played growing up and into/through college (tennis, squash, netball, field hockey etc.) :p But deep down, I do miss it a bit.

But I am back on my feet! What do you do when you feel like shit and are trying to feel less like shit? Go for a walk around your childhood home on old and familiar footpaths at first light…

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I like the Hobbit village quality to this trail

I like the Hobbit village quality to this trail

I remember when I visited Hong Kong for the first time after my accident, in January 2014. I did not know whether I would be able to manage this walk, with all its steps, inclines, and uneven spots. It felt like a triumph to conquer this path that I walked/ran so many times before. While the steps up still are not completely trivial to me now, I am glad that the walk – a few years on – feels pretty easy.

Climbing development opportunities?

Climbing development opportunities?

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Paris: MurMur, Le Marais

It is only Monday but we have had such full and tiring days that it seems like we are further into the trip.

This morning

This morning

Scott sneakily took this picture of me this morning

Scott sneakily took this picture of me this morning (Photo credit: Scott McKay)

To keep things loose, I wanted to stretch out a bit at a climbing gym. My friend Yves very kindly procured a day pass for me to climb with him at Mur Mur, a climbing gym located outside the Peripherique. It took us about an hour to get there via metro and walking. It was interesting to see neighbour hoods outside the Peripherique. Mur Mur’s seems heavily North African. The gym itself is fantastic. It has really interesting routes on all sorts of topography. The variety and features of the walls was particularly impressive. I also like that you have to lead to put a rope up (and Mur Mur has ropes you can use) rather than just have all these top-ropes hanging.

Part of the Mur Mur lead area

Part of the Mur Mur lead area (Photo credit: Scott McKay)

Mid-afternoon sustenance:

Raspberry Millefeuil with Yuzu cream filling. This is how Millefeuil should be. And a chocolate eclair.

Raspberry Millefeuil with Yuzu cream filling. This is how Millefeuil should be. And a chocolate eclair.

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Lenôtre

After a break at home to let outside temperatures cool down a bit, we headed to the Marais. The architecture is nice but, frankly, the pricier shops/chains were pretty boring.

We had dinner at Cafe des Musees in the Marais, mostly because they are open on Mondays (most French establishments are not), and it got good reviews online. We were, yet again, surprised by what amazing food could come out of a bistro kitchen.

My appetizer: "Notre spécialité : Champignons de Paris farcis aux escargots." The escargot stuffed mushrooms are covered in simple clarified butter, garlic, parsley, some kind of spinachy/herby puree.

My appetizer: “Notre spécialité : Champignons de Paris farcis aux escargots.” The escargot stuffed mushrooms are covered in simple clarified butter, garlic, parsley, some kind of spinachy/herby puree.

Paris, arrival!

We arrived! Our journey from Boston to CDG was uneventful, and the taxi ride from the airport to our apartment was perhaps the fastest I have experienced (it was a Sunday morning I guess). It’s a bit hard to characterize exactly what neighbourhood we are in. We are in the 12th arr. near Bastille, a short walk to marche d’Aligre, right near the Ledru-Rollin metro. Maaaaybe the edge of Canal St. Martin? Feels more like Bastille to me. I already love the area. It is full of real people.

Our apartment on Avenue Ledru Rollin

Our apartment on Avenue Ledru Rollin

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We are on the 4th floor (U.S. 5th floor)

The bas reliefs in the entrance way of our apartment building are really beautiful.

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his is ete (summer).

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Hiver (Winter)

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Printemps (Spring)

Automn (Autumn)

Automn (Autumn)

To my pleasant surprise, the apartment has a lift. Not having to trudge up five flights of stairs (the ceilings of each floor are very high too) will save me a lot of energy. The lift is very small and without ventilation. I sure as hell would not like to be stuck in it.

The lift is very small one and without any ventilation. Myself and those two bags are the maximum it can hold. Just Scott and me is pushing it too.

Myself and those two bags are the maximum it can hold. Just Scott and myself is pushing it too. (Photo credit: Scott McKay)

The apartment was larger than expected. It is so great to have a welcoming and comfortable place to have as home base for the next fortnight.

Home for the next 2 weeks!

Home for the next 2 weeks!

View down from our apartment down to the street. It is very important to have a cafe at every possible corner.

View down from our apartment down to the street. It is very important to have a cafe at every possible corner.

Keeping in line with the building's shape

Keeping in line with the building’s shape

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Our breakfast balcony

This is a teeny-tiny "bedroom" in the apartment. Probably where you send your child into banishment. Yes, even being 5'1" with a negative ape index, my arm-span is wider than the "room"

This is a teeny-tiny “bedroom” in the apartment. Probably where you send your child into banishment. Yes, even being 5’1″ with a negative ape index, my arm-span is wider than the “room” (Photo credit: Scott McKay)

We managed to get to the marche d’Aligre before it closed early on a Sunday. The market is just a 5 to 10 minute walk from us, meaning we have access to ridiculously good boulangeries, pâtisseries, fromageries, produce and vegetable stands, fish, and meat. It is, conveniently, somewhat on the way to the Accor Arena where the climbing competition will be held.

After a much needed break in the apartment, we headed to the place de la Bastille. It looks like a pretty happening neighborhood which we will explore more later.

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Colonne de Juillet, place de la Bastille

We took another slight detour to walk through the place des Voges.

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place des Voges

The topiary in the place des Voges is pretty cool

The topiary in the place des Voges is pretty cool

One wonderful thing in Paris is the unexpected courtyards hidden behind closed doors. At first I thought the facade of this gallery was some kind of industrial looking store-front, but upon walking in, we discovered this cool space.

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A totally unexpected art gallery in an industrial courtyard. Here I am looking quite disheveled and tired. (Photo credit: Scott McKay)

All the walking took a toll on my back and left leg, so I was very happy to eat at the well-regarded bistro our apartment sits above. The bistro surprised us with their incredibly interesting, well-made and well-presented food.

A lovely close to not even a first full day.

Sunset from our apartment. Notice the cool mammatus clouds, which I rarely see (at least in the U.S.)

Sunset from our apartment. Notice the cool mammatus clouds, which I rarely see (at least in the U.S.)