Gunks-tastic weekend

I finally made it to the Gunks this past weekend, after bumping into a friend from our Stanford/Palo Alto days at one of the local climbing gyms. It is always funny to re-encounter old acquaintances a rather long distance from where you first met/knew each other, but I suppose the academic and tech scene around Stanford, CA and Cambridge, MA make the two spheres overlap with each other considerably. Dave was the house-mate of an ex-boyfriend (who taught me a lot about climbing and really nurtured my development as a climber); a really strong telemarker, and all-round mountain man. I think there is both comfort and slight discomfort in doing activities, like skiing and climbing, with people who did these things with me, and knew me, before my accident, like Dave. Comfort in that there is a shared knowledge of how I “used” to be (I hesitate to use the word “perform” as well, although that was my first instinct), what happened with my accident and its effects, and therefore an appreciation for how I am back at it and getting out. But also a slight discomfort on my part because I worry about holding old friends back, compared to how hard I used to be able to [insert activity]. I did not feel quite so bad with Dave though, because he is a full foot and almost 100 lbs heavier than I am; so he has always been much stronger and faster than me. It also made me feel less bad about asking him to carry a lot of our gear (ropes and pro) to the base of climbs. It looked like a very warm, dry weekend at the Gunks; Dave had never been, so off we went.

We had never roped up together. Most of the time, I will not climb with folks outside unless we have lead-climbed indoors together or they are a guide/pro-climber etc. But, I know Dave is an experienced trad-climber, having climbed with mutual friends before, so I was not worried. The weight difference did make for some very attentive belaying on my part though! Since it was Dave’s first time at the Gunks, we worked on knocking off the various moderate classics e.g. CCK, High E, Son of Easy O, and so on. If you are not familiar with Gunks ratings, they are pretty stiff. The fact that the grades are “old-school” (e.g. 5.9 was the highest grade at the time, so any climb 5.9 and above was given a 5.9 rating, even 10’s, maybe even 11’s!) and that the climbs are often over-hanging and exposed, makes for some great, but heady, climbing.

First climb and lead of the day

First climb and lead of the day

It took me awhile to get used to and feel comfortable on the rock. I tried not to be too harsh on myself for not leading any of the hardest pitches.

I love how the mood of the Gunks varies so much.

I love how the mood of the Gunks varies so much.

Yay, rope management.

Yay, rope management. That is the brace I use to protect my left-knee a bit. Cool tree, too.

Like any climbing partnership, it took Dave and I a little while to develop a successful dynamic. I would say the first day was spent doing that, so that by the time Sunday rolled around, we were making a pretty good team. I was also feeling more confident on Sunday, so was able to swing all leads with Dave.

Belaying Dave on P2, the money pitch on the famous High E(xposure).

Belaying Dave on P2, the money pitch on the famous High E(xposure). Pretty cool rock.

The awesome third pitch of CCK. Even though it is only a 5.7-5.8, it is spicy!

The awesome third pitch of CCK. Even though it is only a 5.7-5.8, it is spicy!

Cool panorama. And, no, my biceps are not that big (or flabby).

Cool panorama. And, no, my biceps are not that big (or flabby).

Despite my anxieties about climbing with an old acquaintance (I know I get even more anxious climbing with people who didn’t know me pre-accident – I know I need to work on this lose-lose situation, I was very glad we got out. It was lovely to re-connect and spend time with an old Stanford buddy; get some very enjoyable climbing in and start to build up my trad-leading abilities for the season; and re-invigorate myself by getting outside and hang off some cool rock with enjoyable company. (Photos courtesy of Dave Johnson).

Official AAC Announcement

Wow! I am rather honoured to be one of the “Highlighted 2015 Winners” of the American Alpine Club 2015 Live Your Dream Grant.

At the end of the day though, it is just climbing. I am sure the timing of the announcement was such that it did not detract from causes and people who are in true need of help i.e. the Nepal earthquake victims and Nepalese people. After some research, I decided to make a donation to Direct Relief.

I would love to find a way to make my effort on El Cap benefit this cause. If anyone has any ideas, please let me know.

 

The road to NIAD starts with…

…a little crag in Central Mass. (I should clarify that NIAD = Nose-in-a-Day).

My friend Clint, a Yosemite encylopedia who did a fair bit of climbing around here in his student days at Harvard, suggested Crow Hill Ledge as a spot to practice jumaring, given the proximity to Cambridge (less than an hour), not very long approach (I would have said “super short” in my pre-accident days, but approaches are never too short for me these days), and sufficient height and over-hang at Fisherman’s Wall. Fisherman’s Wall is about 90-100 feet high, over-hanging and from what I had read, there is a trail that goes right to the top of the ledge.

Nevertheless, I was nervous about the planned endeavor for a number of reasons. I had not jugged a line in over five years; I would need to figure things out from what seemed like scratch because my memory was foggy, I have been out of practice, and I would be switching the handedness of things – I used to have my right ascender at the top, left ascender on the bottom, and step up with my left leg on over-hanging terrain.

I knew I wanted to go out there on my own because (a) I do not want to have to rely on someone to help me schlump my gear every time I want to go somewhere (b) I knew I would feel more comfortable flailing alone while I figured out how to do this all over again, and (c) I don’t want to feel like I have to be with someone every time I explore a new climbing area, although company in unfamiliar territory is certainly a nice thing. My partner does not really climb outside, and I don’t know many people around here who are psyched on cracks and trad, let alone aiding. Most of my anxiety centered around me not being sure how I would manage on the approach to the top of the ledge to fix my line, given that I would be carrying a thick rope and all sorts of heavy anchor building gear because I did not know what to expect up there. There is also something a little un-nerving to me about not having a partner around to double-check my set-up.

In any case, I knew I’d feel like a total pussy if I didn’t go do this, so off I went. The walk to the base of the crag was manageable. It was a bit slower walking to the top of the ledge and finding the right trees to build anchors off of. After building a meticulously safe anchor, I descended a little bit only to find that this was not the part of the crag I wanted to throw my line down, so I had to break that anchor down, re-coil the rope and walk another 50m or so, before I found two nice live trees to build anchors around, and a third tree for a re-direct. Something I am realizing about New England climbing (that is not sport-climbing), is that I need to bring way more/super long slings/cord to build anchors. I was also reminded of how I rather dislike single rope raps. Nevertheless, I zipped down my fixed line with no incident.

Fisherma's Wall.

Fisherma’s Wall. The left diagonal crack is a 5.8, and it is difficult to make out in the photo, but there is a 5.11 crack on the far right of the picture. I like the shadows of the trees.

My jugged a line that fell to the left of that 5.11 crack on a less featured section of the face.

All these horizontal features are still a bit alien to me :) The rope actually falls about 20 ft away from the base, which gives some indication of the not so obvious overhang of the wall.

It took me awhile to dial in my system e.g. adjusting the daisies to the right height, getting used to pushing up with my left hand over my right one, dealing with annoying things like biner gates facing the wrong/annoying way etc. I think I worked out the kinks after the first lap or two. I decided to do five laps, then take a little break. I even allowed myself a few sips of water, despite my worries about peeing in my pants.

I then did another five laps. I was tired. I had also forgotten how much chafing action there is going with jugging (and I’m not talking about my rolls of skin :)). But the limiting factor in me deciding to make my tenth lap my last one wasn’t so much fatigue, as it was me not being at all psyched about my rope running over the edge like that. After the first lap, I moved the rope to be over a less sharp part of the edge, and would check every time I reached the top of a lap; but nevertheless, I was not enthusiastic about this and decided to cut out while I was ahead after a nice round number like Ten. Next time I will bring even longer slings and cord to run the master point over the edge.

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Hanging out.

All in all, in spite of my anxieties going into this, it was a rather successful day. I didn’t die; I didn’t get hurt; I figured out how to steeps/over-hangs again. Next steps will be building up jugging stamina, and figuring things out on non-overhanging terrain, where I will have to put my left foot in the aider and use my left leg. Also, I will have to figure out the hydration situation :( I found myself very dehydrated, even after this little affair, and I’ll have to figure out how I can drink enough to keep me hydrated without causing me to wet my pants with my incontinence issues; and how to cath myself on a wall. I am guessing there will be some trial and, unfortunately, error here.

It’s On(g) like Donkey-Kong!

I was just notified by the American Alpine Club that I was one of the recipients of the 2015 Live Your Dream Grant, for the Northeast Region in the U.S. My grant application was to help offset the costs of attending the 2015 American Alpine Club International Climbers Meet (I had to defer my participation last year because of the numerous broken fingers and right foot), and a Nose-in-a-Day (NIAD) attempt too.

For a number of reasons, I hesitated before accepting the award. I was not sure how I would find the time to train to do all those pitches and dial in a system with my prospective partner (who lives in California). The Northeast does not have long aid-routes or places where I can climb to the top of an area and drop down 1-2 full rope lengths and practice jugging. Ideally, I would make a trip before the planned one, to practice aid (I have not done a wall since before my accident), figure out how I can jug efficiently on slab (I suspect that will be far harder for me than steep overhangs). But, I have a partner (that is, a life/romantic one) who does not climb outside, and I feel bad about spending time away from him because that affects how much time we can spend together. Being in a relationship with a non-climber (he boulders on plastic inside) is a new experience for me, as I had always been with guys who climbed since I started climbing (before my big accident). I had dated lots of non-climbers post-accident, but that was before I got back into climbing outside more seriously again.

I heard a great quote the other day, from the host of the Enormocast podcast. He said something along the lines of, “Sport climbing is like chocolate cake. It’s great, tasty and awesome, but you can’t live on it. Long trad and aid routes are like the juicy hamburger.” Even though I do not eat land-based meat, this is exactly how I feel :) This is how I feel about pulling on plastic inside too. It has its place, but it doesn’t feed my soul. It did make me question living around here though, where I can’t fulfill my potential as a trad/aid-climber, because there just is not that much around here along those lines (ha ha, groan). But, I tell myself, there is more to life than climbing, including love and being with someone you are crazy about, who is crazy about you, and who you are so compatible with.

I went ahead and accepted the grant award. I knew if I rejected the award, I would regret it and be resentful of Scott. I’ll be putting thought into how to go about achieving my objectives this Fall. One possibility is practicing on Dolt Tower; and it would be prudent to get the Traverse from Sickle to Stovelegs down too. If anyone has any ideas of places not too far from Boston where I can easily drop a fixed line and do jugging laps (this would mean a place where getting to the anchors (ideally, fixed bolts, or places where I can put in very solid natural anchors), please let me know!

Alaska Skiing Trip Round-up

My best friend’s wedding and a gross food intolerance (projectile, messy everything and everywhere) intervened with this write-up. Perhaps more current commentary would lend insight into how I am feeling in/closer to the moment. But allowing for some time to pass might not be such a bad idea as it allows me to see myself and the situation in a more objective light. For example, after my first day of skiing at Alyeska, I thought, this trip cannot be over soon enough. It was raining from the base to mid-mountain, and the snow higher up the mountain was super heavy, wet cement. I was on my wider ski which I had only skied one day on beforehand, is a lot more ski to push around and just being tossed about as my ski, outriggers and left leg got caught on what seemed like every turn/bump. The person I was skiing with basically offered nothing in the way of instruction, saying, I have no idea what I would do with one ski and outriggers. I thought, great. What. The. Fuck. I was close to tears by the end of the day, thinking that I just totally sucked and would never be able to ski any/all kinds of terrain again. Every one around me reassured me that these were very challenging conditions for everyone, not just me; and it is true, many people were falling left and right around me. But, as usual, I took no solace in this knowledge. The bottom half of the mountain consisted more of water-skiing back to the Challenge Alaska building. And, I also found myself quite stressed out by all the people around me, all the time, as I am introverted by nature.

At the end of that first day, I spoke with Jeremy, the director of the Adaptive Ski and Snowboard School at Challenge Alaska, saying, look, I really appreciated having someone show me around the mountain, but I had gotten absolutely nothing out of the day. I think he saw how glum I was. But, he also said, today was about you guys getting used to these conditions and me getting a baseline for where every one is at. He also said, I think it would be really helpful for us to figure out a system to hold your left leg up so that it is out of the way, you don’t have to waste your energy holding it up, and it also isolates your good leg so that it is completely free to move on its own (which eliminated my velcro between the knees idea). We played about with a piece of webbing looped around my left snow boot (Sorels) with a knot tied at the end of that, another piece of webbing threaded through a super dinky loop for the detachable braces on my ski pants and connected the two with a carabiner. Jeremy said, okay, lets go out and do one run off the beginner chair to test this out, just one run. I was in my boxer short pyjamas already, but said, okay, put my waterproof pants and jacket over my PJs, and went out. Well, that one beginner run turned out to be a bit longer, as we figured out how I could clip and unclip the webbing depending on whether I was getting on/off a lift (obviously, having my left leg free as I get on a chair is useful), but then clipping my left leg up as I started a run at the top of a chair. My left leg is a bit flaccid, so it takes some man-handling on my part to raise the heel back and high enough to clip it out of the way. It was certainly a very different feeling, but Jeremy thought it looked a lot better and asked if I would give it a try the following day. I agreed. I really appreciated him just taking a few runs with me at the end of his day.

The next day, Jeremy arranged for me to be paired with him for the day (I only later learned that his nickname, JAHA, stood for Jeremy Anderson Hard Ass – my kinda guy). The difference between my second day and first day were like night and day. Jeremy really knows what he is doing. We focused on just two things: (1) Flexion and extension at the proper place in a turn (and turn-shape – really finishing my turns), and (2) having my left hip open (i.e. facing down the fall-line) when I am on my uphill edge and letting it hang and do whatever when I am on the downhill edge. The first thing is simply a function of how tired my right leg is. The second is slightly trickier as I do not have good proprioception in my left leg/hip. So I would have to look down and see where my left quad is, adjust my core and weak left hip flexor muscle and recognize that sensation and remember it. We started off on the groomers and just did laps on that to work on these two (okay, maybe two and a half) things. We then progressed to deeper crud/off-trail stuff. Having my left leg pinned up when I stopped took some getting used to. My usual thing has been to just drop my left leg/foot when I stop; but obviously, now this results in a big THUD when I do so, and I also need to use my outriggers more to pole myself out if I am in a pickle. I was (and still am) a bit nervous about not having protection around my left knee (my usual left leg brace limits the range of motion); I will at least be wearing my old telemarking knee pads on that knee so that it doesn’t end up as messed up as it looks (hopefully not how it actually is, since I don’t have much sensation there).

My rolling ski bag *almost* doubles as a body bag.

My rolling ski bag *almost* doubles as a body bag.

Day Three was perhaps my best skiing day. The snow wasn’t super sticky/wet in the morning, but also not super deep (which I don’t have any familiarity with as a three-tracker). It was the Challenge Alaska Fundraiser, so the building was pretty packed. It was a really nice event to witness and be a part of, and see the wonderful community of folks. I had a mono-skier, Nathan, who totally rips, show me around the mountain. Nathan makes beautiful turns in all conditions, with great outrigger use; but, more importantly, just has a great attitude, it seems. He was living in Kansas to play college football, and was working some kind of job involving manual labour. A fork-lift accidentally dropped a heavy load on top of him and made him a T9-complete SCI. He did not ski before his injuries, and only took up mono-skiing after he returned to Alaska (after returning to finish college after he was done rehabilitating). Skiing with him was just like having fun skiing with any ski buddy. At the end of the day he asked, “How is your leg feeling? It must be so tired!” And this is a guy whose lower body is completely paralyzed! I was touched by that comment.

Saturday's setting light. It was only just before 9pm here, and the clearest it had been in Girdwood, AK.

Saturday’s setting light. It was only just before 9pm here, and the clearest it had been in Girdwood, AK. It is hard to capture the steep, sick chutes and scale of these mountains rising up from sea-level.

Scott and I did are own thing on Sunday (Day Four), getting on first chair to take advantage of the cooler mornings and lighter/less heavy snow. I was happy to be on our own as I appreciate the solitude and not being around people all the time. Being pretty much at sea-level, Alyeska gets this very thick pea-soup fog that rolls in; but conditions really seem to change from minute to minute. I became more proficient at clipping and unclipping my left foot up below my butt. Even though when Nathan and/or Scott helped me I would joke, Man, I’ll try not to fart, being independent here is (psychologically and otherwise) very important to me. I do not want to have to rely on having someone around to help me with lift-served terrain.

Here I am, looking like Kenny (ala South Park), as usual. My left leg is dropped down because I have not clipped it up while we are standing around. I only clip it up when I am skiing.

Here I am, looking like Kenny (ala South Park), as usual. My left leg is dropped down because I have not clipped it up while we are standing around. I only clip it up when I am skiing.

Outriggers flipped up

Outriggers flipped up

There was some uncertainty over whether my deep snow skiing abilities were good enough for me to get on the heli-skiing on Monday. It was clear that my deeper snow skiing abilities had improved considerably since my arrival at Alyeska, but the question was, had they improved enough? I am probably the least confident person in my own abilities, and the last thing I want is to be a safety liability to others. This is something I am very conscious about. But folks who had been with me skiing decided that I was a go. The party was going to consist of two able-bodied skiers, and myself and another one-legged skier (Vasu Sojitra). A restless Sunday night and Monday morning were spent feeling very ill with nervousness.

Clear skies were a rarity on this visit; unfortunately, the moon did not allow for Northern Lights sightings this one clear night.

Clear skies were a rarity on this visit; unfortunately, the moon did not allow for Northern Lights sightings this one clear night.

Monday morning was the first clear morning of our entire trip. It looked like the weather gods were cooperating and a heli-skiing weather window was a possibility. Chugach Powder Guides gave a good safety orientation early Monday morning and we were on 10am weather standby. The standby was pushed to noon, then 1pm, then 2pm. All the while, we skied in-bounds at Alyeska in order to warm up/get our skiing legs (or leg, in my case) under us, but also not get so tired that we would be totally gassed for heli-skiing. At 2pm, CPG ended the standby and cancelled all trips for the day. We were only slightly bummed. On the one hand, it would have been an amazing experience. But, I had gotten a lot out of this trip already; namely, devising and iterating a new system for getting my gimpy leg out of the way, and improving my skiing in challenging conditions. Plus, next year I will be a better skier and be able to ski more challenging terrain and snow.

My soul-patch under my lip from the numerous face-plants . From the window, you can see how little snow there is at the base of the mountain

My soul-patch under my lip from the numerous face-plants

My last runs of the trip did not end on a good note. I was tired, perhaps from that day as well as the accumulation of five days of skiing in heavy snow and the repeated tumbles with a very high DIN setting on my bindings, really hurt my (good) knee. Before, I used to be of the mindset that it was important for my right ski not to release if I fall, because retrieving a ski is more difficult for me these days. Now, I am a firm believer that wrecking my good knee isn’t worth it; I will be dialing my DIN setting down to something a bit more appropriate for my weight (say, a 6 – which is very aggressive for someone weighing 112 lbs – instead of an 8!) In any case, I was, yet again, in tears, as I gingerly skied through the slush back to the Challenge Alaska house. We had a reservation at Jack Sprat, a fantastic restaurant in Girdwood, that evening; and, like Gijon, I had to actively go against the voice in my head that said “You do not deserve this meal.” :( For anyone in Girdwood, I highly recommend the restaurant.

A lovely stroll along the meadows between the Challenge Alaska house and the Alyeska Hotel

A lovely stroll along the meadows between the Challenge Alaska house and the Alyeska Hotel

I was particularly impressed with a blind member of the Paradox crew. I was very curious about how he had adapted to going about daily life being blind and asked him all sorts of basic questions. I became aware of the term “lights out”, which means that a person is completely blind. His active pursuits were impressive; say, kayaking the Grand Canyon. But, I was even more bowled over by the fact that he had raised three girls as a single father. That is the ultimate in bad-assery, in my opinion.

One cool thing is that Scott learned a lot from the coaching I was receiving, even as someone who skis with both legs, and his skiing improved as the trip progressed. The morning of our departure, as we were looking up at the north facing headwalls at Alyeska, Scott said, to go from falling off a green chair-lift, to skiing black diamond runs in Alaska and possibly heli-skiing (save for Mother Nature) in three months, is pretty incredible. I am inclined to agree with him, despite my initial dejection and disappointment with myself. While this disappointment stayed with me even a few days after my return from Alaska, looking back, I can say that I got a tremendous amount out of the trip, including meeting some wonderful people in the Paradox crew and the Challenge Alaska volunteers. Fingers crossed, I am very much looking forward to a return visit next season.

En route to Alaska, and other anxieties

I am sitting at Chicago’s O’Hare airport passing the 4+ hour layover, en route to Anchorage, AK. While skiing in the Chugach is a wonderful opportunity, I was/am having all my usual anxieties around air-travel, pain, and what five days of skiing will do to my body.

Air-travel just plain sucks for every body, I know. But, the effects of extended sitting in an airplane seat, and even at airports, are not pleasant for me. The back pain blows. Even with diabetic compression socks, my left foot/leg in particular swells up, the neuropathy is aggravated, and my foot/ankle mobility on that side worsens considerably – all making for sleepless nights and even gimpier gimpiness.

I am also worrying about the back-pain that arises from skiing. The lack of free, un-fused vertebrae to absorb impact is problematic, and I am also worried about not being good enough to heli-ski because my left leg catches in deep snow. I am hoping these are problems that can be solved before we go heli-skiing (if that indeed happens). The original plan was to go cat-skiing, but rain/lack of snow at the base made this a non-option. I also have to be super-light on my outriggers, because I have developed nerve pain in my hands from that and am now sleeping with a hand-brace at night to help alleviate those symptoms.

I know this trip is meant to be FUN. But, as usual, I am placing pressures on myself to ski “well”. I am sure it will be a wonderful experience. But, this does not stop me from fearing the physical effects during and after the trip, even though I know fearing pain is the worst way to deal with pain. It induces a terrible cycle of fearing pain, fighting it, making the pain worse, and so on.

I also have not climbed regularly/at all since the start of ski season. I know the training cycle is just that: a cycle. While I enjoy training, starting from “scratch” always feels crummy. The story of my life…

Deflated, for no good reason…and feeling even more dejected because of it

Even though my time skiing and ice-climbing in Colorado had been tiring, Scott and I decided to head up to Jay Peak, VT the Saturday and Sunday following my return because snow conditions were looking promising: a few inches of snow throughout Saturday and some more accumulation on Sunday, and mild(er) temperatures (caveat: for New England skiing standards. On one chair ride on Saturday, when temps were still a good 10-12 degF or so, Scott and another guy were “complaining” about how they were getting so warm – #eastcoastskierproblems). Despite a 3.30am wakeup on Saturday morning after a few hours of sleep and a four hour drive up to the resort, we managed to hold it together during the day on Saturday.

I feel like I am in the odd position of having done all my skiing before my big accident in the West (and abroad), but much of my very short three-tracking experience post-accident has been in New England. Therefore, I feel like I occupy this no-man’s land of not being used to/not having a reference point for East Coast conditions but also not being used to skiing in deeper snow with one ski/leg. I do not think I will ever like East Coast skiing. As Scott puts it, when he goes out and skis in Western areas, he thinks that conditions are so amazing he doesn’t know what he did to deserve such awesomeness; whereas, I think that such conditions are the norm. When there is fresh snow on icy crust in New England, East Coast skiers think these are the best conditions ever. I merely think I am in purgatory as opposed to hell. I have never been a glades/tree skier. I mean, why on earth would I ski in between trees when I had wide open, steep bowls out West??

But, I still find myself holding myself to incredibly high standards. Just because I have this disability and ski on one ski doesn’t mean that I should struggle in tougher, less familiar conditions, right? :(

Scott and I did a lot of advanced runs off the Jet Triple Chair*. We went down a bumps run which was icy, sparsely covered with lots of exposed rock, and had me cursing as to why I was putting up with this bullshit. It wasn’t pretty. Here is a video of me emerging from that shit-show of a run, and doing some turns underneath the lift. It’s a black-diamond run; it is hard to make out the bumps and the variable conditions (ice, dust on crust, etc), which made it more challenging.

As I watched this video, I noticed people on the lift turning their heads to watch me. My first reaction is to grimace, and think, Man, they must be watching me because I look “weird” and because I am moving so ungracefully. But when I allow myself to be a bit kinder to myself, I think, Oh, maybe they are looking at me because I’m going down a less than easy run on one leg?

A few inches of snow had accumulated by Sunday morning, so we got on first tram and I decided to try my wider Volkl Auras. Things did not go well. My leg was not as fresh, and every movement felt so onerous and painful. Scott says that when I was moving, I actually looked good. But it did not feel that way. As the morning progressed, I felt increasingly dejected, thinking, this is as good as I will ever get (which is pretty fuckin’ crappy). For some reason, with every single bump, every time I pressured my right shin, I felt like crying. I later found out that I had an edema on that right shin from cranking so hard on my ski boot buckles and having that one shin bear my entire body weight, as opposed to splitting the load between two shins. But, it didn’t occur to me that I had a slight injury. All that I was thinking was, WTF Wendy, this…you…are fuckin’ pathetic. I was on the verge of tears and just called it quits by 11.30am or so because what was the point of skiing if I was hurting and just not having fun.

I continued to beat down on myself the rest of the day on Sunday and into Monday. I felt like I had ruined a great weekend with Scott, and that I just plain SUCKED at skiing and would never ski the stuff I used to ski ever again. The thing is, even if I don’t, what is wrong with that?? The answer is, absolutely nothing. It’s just skiing. But reflecting on my disproportionate reaction just made me feel even shittier and start judging myself about my lack of perspective and inability to better control my reactions/emotions.

Incidentally, I am feeling better today. I am still looking forward to skiing in Alyeska, AK in another few weeks. I am trying to approach skiing in Alaska as a learning experience, rather than something to get down on myself on, even if I suck ass. And, also, an opportunity to meet and hang out with some cool people. There are worse things I suppose.

*Scott told me on Monday that he had hoped to get me on the Jet Triple Chair by next season; so I am one season, at least, ahead of schedule. This offered me little consolation. It reminds me of this guy I know who wanted to hit the slopes with me and wrote “We can stick to blue/green runs if you like.” I suppose one could defend him and say that I’ve advanced pretty darn quickly for someone skiing on one leg. But, still, I flipped him a big, figurative bird. He can look at my behind as I zoom past him.

Ouray addendum: No biggie

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What happened to my foot??

 

I need to work on looking more suitably alarmed

Yes, this is what happened when you don’t have much sensation on your left leg/foot, poor ankle flexibility/mobility, and a slightly too large ice-climbing boot (I size them a bit bigger so that I don’t get super cold feet). Paradox Ice might be the only event when this can happen and people are more likely to laugh than be alarmed.

Ouray, CO – Too much to summarize

Unfortunately, weather delays meant that Lonnie (the visually impaired fellow I mentioned in Thursday’s post) did not make it to Ouray in time for Danika and myself to climb with him today. So we went climbing at the Ouray Ice Park together. I learned a lot from Danika, who still guides part-time; and we also fit in a lot of fun ice and mixed lines.

Ouray Ice Park: I love this place

Ouray Ice Park: I love this place

Climbing under/near this dangling formation

Climbing under/near this dangling formation

In particular, I learned some new ice-climbing techniques that help me a lot in getting my feet higher up and thus minimizing the number of swings I need to take. In particular, I am matching and crossing tools a lot more when traversing; stemming off ice with my hands; and choking up high on the tool and “daggering” it. I love climbing mixed-routes on top-rope because I can just play around without fear of falling. In the interest of time, we didn’t do any leading. I would like to do more of that this season, but it seems like I am spending my free time skiing.

Starting off on a mixed route. You can see I can twist my right leg into many different positions.

Starting off on a mixed route. You can see I can twist my right leg into many different positions.

I often extend my left leg and lock it out.

I often extend my left leg and lock it out.

Stemming and exerting outward force on the left leg is hard for me

Stemming and exerting outward force on the left leg is hard for me

 

It's like a mother's womb

It’s like a mother’s womb

 

Topping out

Topping out

 

The line follows the inside corner, with the ice on the left and the rock on the right side

The line follows the inside corner, with the ice on the left and the rock on the right side

The Paradox Sports crew also arrived on Friday evening so I was able to say Hi to a few familiar faces, as well as meet some new ones.

My experience this year was very different to my previous two years as a participant. Danika kindly let me shadow her and help her with all the work the guides were doing. Each morning, we met early and walked into the Ouray Ice Park to set up all the belay and fixed lines, and all the rigging to lower participants without the mobility to walk or lower themselves into the gorge. It was an incredibly informative experience; learning more about rigging, really solid anchor building. At one point I yelled to a guy whose name I did not know, “Hey! Guy in the purple jacket!” to ask him if he could see whether the fixed line I had set up was touching the ground. The guy turned out to be Steve House! And Kitty Calhoun was also helping out, as well as so many experienced alpinists and ice-climbers. It was so great to be in their company, interact and learn from them. Rigging is very hard work, physically, and my body paid for all the lowering and hauling. As well as lowering people, we were also lowering things like propane tanks/canisters, a large canopy, camping chairs and other things to make things more comfortable for participants, especially for those who may have difficulty sensing temperature.

Down in the gorge, my role was also very different from the previous two years. Rather than being a rather passive participant who just waited to climb some routes, I was busy making myself useful: catching people/loads being lowered down, checking in on participants and offering ice-climbing instruction and tips, packing up, and belaying. On Sunday, I belayed a woman with limited use of her lower body up a route for literally two hours. It was tiring work because I had to keep her on a super tight belay, and she was heavy. It is always interesting to assess my feelings as I observe other handicapped people climb/be active. On the one hand, I was psyched for her, that she made it to the anchors. On the other hand, I thought, well, if you took better care of yourself, worked out, was lighter, stronger etc. you would be able to use your upper body more effectively, like I do. I sound like a bit of a dick, but it is sometimes difficult not to make comparisons between myself and someone with lower-body disabilities.

It is also interesting to note my feelings and interactions with people with disabilities that are very different to mine. For example, I interacted with a blind fellow, who had lost all his vision when an IED blew up near him while he was serving in Baghdad. I also spoke with a fellow who was missing most of his fingers and part of his hand, but also had severe burns on his face. I thought it was super cool that all he put down on his form to describe his physical deficits was, “Missing a few fingers”. I wonder how he views himself? Does he look at himself in the mirror? What does he see? I think he is incredibly brave to face a world where appearances are so important and judgments are made upon. I have also wondered whether my interactions change with people with different kinds of handicaps. Do I react differently to people with physical disfigurements? Or people with cognitive issues? And why? Is it due to unfamiliarity on my part?

At one point on Sunday, a volunteer (and part-time guide) remarked to me as I was belaying the heavier person for a long time, that it was quite inspiring to see these participants get on the ice and climb. I nodded in agreement, and also thought, Wow, he doesn’t know anything is wrong with me. As usual, I kept quiet about my own gimpiness. That tends to be my modus operandi: I only let people know if I feel like they need to know. For example, I will offer it as an explanation for why I am walking slowly on an approach, or if I am climbing, where I usually just say, I have a less than conventional climbing style because of a partly paralyzed leg.

Saturday night’s Fundraiser was also a memorial to Mark Miller, a local guide and big supporter and chief rigger of the Paradox event. I did not know Mark at all, having only run into him twice. Yet, I was quite emotional, crying as it was clear what a big part of the Ouray community he was, and what a loss this was to the town and his family. Many famous alpinists were present, including Steve House and Jim Donini.

I wish Ouray was not such a pain in the ass to get to; but I plan on offering my time and skills next year. I am keen to take a Rigging for Rescue course and learn a whole different skill set that will be useful if I want to guide informally in the coming years.

Telluride – Days 1 to 3 – Getting my three-tracking mojo

I was not anticipating skiing three days in a row, because I had not expected snow conditions to be that great, and I also did not expect to have the endurance or my back to hold up to all the bumps and impact. The journey to Montrose, CO (the closest airport to Ouray and Telluride) was a stressful one. The connection time in Chicago was extremely tight; I am much more aware of such things given that I cannot sprint from gate to gate anymore. Despite the delay in taking off from Boston, my connecting flight was also significantly delayed, so my baggage and myself made it on the plane just fine. Unfortunately, a storm had rolled into Montrose, reducing visibility to distances less than FAA regulations. After circling above Montrose for awhile, our flight was diverted to Grand Junction and after a period of uncertainty, we were finally bused down to Montrose as the snow was really coming down. Fortunately, I did not have to drive very far as I was spending the night with a dear friend who happens to live in Montrose now.

The next day (Monday) was spent shoveling and resting from the day of travel, as air-travel is very uncomfortable for my leg and back.

The storm had made for great conditions at Telluride, so I drove up early on Tuesday to connect with Telluride Adaptive Sports, who had kindly hooked me up with lift-tickets for Tuesday and Thursday. My original plan had been to just ski by myself. Although all my skiing pre-accident had been done out West and I was very familiar with these kinds of conditions, my experience skiing as a three-tracker had been on East Coast ice and hard-pack exclusively. Thus I thought it would behoove me to receive some instruction on what to do with my outriggers and skis in Western bumps and snow conditions.

Being able to not ski with a full-face balaclava, and take off your gloves without getting frost-bite, was a joy for me, given my poor experiences with the bitter cold in New England resorts.

I am really glad I signed up for the half-day lesson and had someone with a tremendous amount of experience offer me advice on how to ski in deeper powder. It turns out that my outriggers, which had been sized when I was still skiing down mostly groomed moderates, were far too long on steeper terrain/bumps. I saw a photo of myself with them and that really highlighted how inappropriate they were for me. For reference, my instructor is 6’3″, 6’5″ in skis and boots, and my outriggers fit him rather well. So that was a very useful piece of information.

Here I am figuring things out in deeper, softer snow (apologies for poor media quality):

You can see just how overly long my outriggers are. In spite of this, I was on bumpy black runs pretty soon after. I will be replacing my current outriggers with a shorter pair.

As I got into deeper snow, my left foot kept getting caught in the snow, causing my hips to rotate out and things quickly going to shit after that. One idea I have is to stick heavy-duty velcro on the inside of my ski pant legs, so that I can lock my legs together but pull them apart with enough force. Guess I’ll be vandalizing a pair of ski pants when I return home.

Bumps are getting higher, although in this run they are widely spaced apart

Bumps are getting higher, although in this run they are  fairly widely spaced apart

I learned a lot in a short period of time. In bumps/moguls, being super light on the uphill outrigger is key as is anticipating the turn, looking for where to place your downhill outrigger (not my ski), and facing down the fall line, obviously. As I tire, I tend to lean on the uphill outrigger more, which always ends poorly.

I was pretty gassed by the end of the day, as I had skied a bunch on my own in the morning, and had my three hour lesson in the afternoon. But I had learned so much from Mike, my instructor, that I wanted to take another half-day lesson with him the next day. Tuesday night was spent eating a lot to compensate for my lack of calories during the day, inhaling a lot of Aleve, and just trying to recover for the next day.

Wednesday was a skiing highlight for me. I got down my first legit (legit in that it was long, steep, thigh/hip high bumps) double-black run as a three-tracker, while my legs were still fairly fresh, and bombed down a steep, but groomed, double-black run…all in fairly good style, I think. At one point, a group of German-speakers asked me “What is this??” That was amusing. I received quite a few compliments from them and other folks, which was nice for the ego.

First legitimate double-black run on one leg.

This double-black run will always have a place in my heart

Again, I thought I would not ski the next day given how tired I was. But, when I woke up on Thursday and saw the new snow and clear skies, I thought I could not miss these conditions that are not found on the East Coast.

My legs were not fresh as they were yesterday, but we still got a fair bit of mileage in on steep, bumpy, un-groomed black and double-black runs. The difference in gear requirements is quite apparent between the East and West. While I had gotten a very stiff boot to deal with East Coast hard-pack, and thinking that I had to be totally locked down in my boots because I was only on one ski, I need to soften things up and play around with the flex in my boot for Western conditions. Having a wider and softer ski will help too. There are also attachments you can add to your outriggers to give them more floatation in powder:

IMG_0740IMG_0741

I was fortunate to have the company of Danika, a woman I had not known well before this trip, but had invited me to stay with her, after we had connected at last year’s Paradox Ouray event. My original reason for arriving earlier than the start of this year’s Paradox Ouray weekend, was to help Danika give ice-climbing instruction to a group of veterans from Alaska. The group did not end up coming; thus we had time to ski. It’s funny…I would never say my accident was a blessing, and I wished it had never happened. But, it did open up many wonderful people to me that I would never have met – Danika is one such person.

I am really looking forward to helping Danika guide a blind-climber tomorrow. I am sure I will be saying all sorts of cringe-worthy things to this fellow. For example, it came up that Danika had never met him in person and only chatted over the phone. I asked, Oh, have you guys Skyped? Face-palm. I recall doing something similar with a quadriplegic woman. We met and my first instinct, which I followed, was to extend my hand out in introduction. And then I immediately thought, Oh God Wendy, you’re a fuckin’ idiot.