Anxieties and preparations for NIAD

The last month has been incredibly stressful, due to balancing family and personal issues with preparations for NIAD. It has been challenging to train for NIAD around here because of 1) lack of long pitches and similar terrain, 2) the capriciousness of New England weather, and 3) pressing family matters that have sucked time away from this endeavour. While I am lucky to have a relatively flexible job, it is nonetheless, an office-job with an energy economics consulting firm that makes it hard to take days off in the middle of the week when the weather is good. The release of the EPA’s Clean Power Plan final rule has made August and September especially busy at work. My short time in the Valley and really only having one shot at this over one weekend is adding to the pressure I am feeling.

My main concerns are around my jugging stamina and not having my forearms and biceps cramp-up because I will have to rely on them more given the inability to transfer weight between my legs. While I have my set-up down for overhanging terrain, I am still not sure what I will do on slabbier/vertical terrain.

I have experimented around with some different equipment and set-ups, and for overhanging terrain at least, I am going to go with a Metolius Easy-Daisy attached to my top ascender (left for me, even though I am right-handed), a regular daisy-chain and Metolius Easy-Aider attached to my lower (right) ascender, and a Metolius pocket-aider or shortened Metolius ladder aider.

The closest place for me to set up a fixed line to practice jugging on has been Crow Hill in Central Mass. I’m going to try getting out there before I leave for the Valley at the end of the month.

I really should have started my bicep-increasing training plan earlier.



Despite my anxieties, I know I am in pretty good trad climbing shape. But, the length, exposure and all the other variables on a big-wall temper this a bit.

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