Parting shots from Revelstoke and to Whistler, BC

I could not NOT ski yesterday morning, given that it was a powder day. I thought I would try and do something I have not done since before my accident and in over a decade, and try to get first lift. I thought I had done quite well by arriving at the parking lot at 7am, when the first gondola started at 8.30am. Obviously, there were many people with the same idea.

The line ahead of me. You can see the lines goes down and then starts snaking around and around

The line ahead of me. You can see the lines goes down and then starts snaking around and around

It was actually not trivial walking up to this point in the snow/slope for me. I did feel slightly self-conscious as I moved up the slope slowly.

The line behind me by the time I got to the snaking around part of the gondola line

The line behind me by the time I got to the snaking around part of the gondola line

I did not get first tracks, but the snow was still pillowy soft, and lots of it. Skiing in powder is definitely the hardest type of snow for me, because I have to keep such a light touch on the outriggers/hold them out of the snow, and really accentuate the up-down action with my leg. This was tough on my third ski day in a row.

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It was difficult to capture how beautiful the mountains in the distance were in this light.

It was difficult to capture how beautiful the mountains in the distance were in this light.

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The 6.5 hour drive from Revelstoke to Whistler was very tiring because of slippery road conditions a lot of the way. There were two occasions where I was stopped because cars had to be pulled out of trouble.

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The bluff around Salmon Arm made me think of Squamish. There seems to be a ton of great rock between Revelstoke and Salmon Arm.

The bluff around Salmon Arm made me think of Squamish. There seems to be a ton of great rock between Revelstoke and Salmon Arm.

As I drove along BC-99 in the arid rain shadow of the coastal mountains, I was reminded of the rain shadow between the Sierra Nevada mountains and Rocky Mountains in the U.S. A lot of the landscape reminded me of parts of Nevada and Utah. Actually, my main thought as I drove along BC-99 was, oh, the Canadians are just as good as the U.S. at leaving First Nations people with shitty land to live on :(

I arrived in Whistler safely and took a rest day on New Years Eve. I have mixed feelings about being in such a resort-y skiing destination. I loved Revelstoke because it had world-class terrain and conditions without all the apres and resort village shops, but I know Whistler-Blackcomb is bloody huge and will be great to ski at too. And it is nice to have amenities (although I do think one can live without a Lululemon store in the ski village).

The temperatures are uncharacteristically low for these mountains, and will continue to drop as a cold front moves through.

More RevelSTOKE to whet appetite for more BC skiing

There was much more RevelSTOKE today to whet my appetite for more interior British Columbia skiing. Today was a more characteristic Revelstoke day: snow turning into puking in the afternoon, no sun in sight. I was pleased to achieve a little milestone today, and that was to negotiate my first cliffs on ski since my accident.

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Cliff sign

Cliff sign

Went off to lookers right

Went off to lookers right

Raining snow

Raining snow

At one point I was deep into very deep snowy glades; but because the runs are so long here, the glades went on forever (in all directions) with no person or marker for navigation in sight. Being a planner, thoughts of falling into a tree well and being stuck there with no one being aware of it did cross my mind a few times. I wondered what my plan of action would be, and did think that temperatures were mild enough for me to make it through the night at least. Fortunately, it did not come to that.

A lot of snow to get through

A lot of snow to get through

Up and over/through this

Up and over/through this

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Again, with all this new snow, avy danger is high and I do not feel good about going out of bounds tomorrow. Avy work along Trans Canada 1 likely precludes a trip to Kicking Horse tomorrow. There are worse fates than getting first tracks at Revy tomorrow morning though. I wish time allowed for me to check out all the other interior BC ski areas e.g. Red Mountain, Whitewater…but it just means I need to make another trip out here soon.

Feeling the RevelSTOKE

So so stoked on Revelstoke. I have been fortunate enough to ski at quite a few really top areas, and I have to say, Revelstoke just might be my favourite. I love it when there are so many good skiers on a mountain, so many skiers tour, so many rip. I love that it still has a locals feel to it, maybe because it is just 5 lifts (2 might be kiddy ones, too). And yet, because I am the anomaly at a place like Revelstoke, so many people were genuinely curious about me  (“Do you switch ski mid-day?”) and so so stoked for me (I haven’t been a total slouch either). The cultural differences between the U.S. and Canada are apparent. Everyone has been uniformly polite and respectful (“Can I ask…”, “Do you mind if I ask…”), not automatically imposing their curiosity/bombasticity (I just made up that word) on me, yet being so so psyched for me, especially when they see me tear it up.

Of all the bloody days to leave my GoPro in the car, and have my phone go cold on me, today was it. But I did manage to salvage a few.

I was really stoked to be able to manage to get to the North Bowls on my own, and hold my own on the terrain there. Even runs like “Snorkel Glades” i.e. two of the hardest things for me on a ski and outriggers – deep deep powder and trees – were fine and fun.

The aptly named route which takes you over to the North Bowls.

The aptly named route which takes you over to the North Bowls.

About to launch over/through this and down

About to launch over/through this and down

sweet

More goodness

At one point in this area, an Austrian instructor came up to me to congratulate me and ask me what was up. At the end of the conversation he said “You are here. It is perfect.” I could not have agreed more (even though with his accent, I was chuckling internally, thinking this felt like something out of the Eiger Sanction. I had to include the link because I feel like I’m at an age where there are people younger than me who do not get this reference!)

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View from about 1/4-1/3 of the way up the mountain

View from about 1/4-1/3 of the way up the mountain

28cm of snow expected tomorrow, so it will be full on snorkel weather. I had been thinking of driving to Kicking Horse, to the East in Golden. But with this much heavy snow in the forecast, highway warning already in effect between Eagle and Rogers Pass, I am questioning whether this is a good idea or not.

It just keeps coming

It just keeps coming

You can see the drive between Revelstoke and Golden falls right along the stretch of highway under warning

You can see the drive between Revelstoke and Golden falls right along the stretch of highway under warning

One thing I did last night was make an improvement to my left boot setup too. I used thicker cord, tied a different knot, used that rubber attachment from the bottom of a screamer to keep the point between the cord and biner rigid for easier clipping; and be able to clip the biner to the loop on my Sorel so that the biner no longer makes a clanking sound when I walk or risks getting lost.

Necessity is the mother of invention, I suppose

Necessity is the mother of invention, I suppose

What I wear when I am skiing in really freakin’ cold weather

This will either amuse or horrify you. But I thought it would be amusing to document all that I wore on me today (I didn’t wear a backpack, so this really was all on me) when I was skiing in Lake Louise. Yeah, I can’t decide whether I look like a very very fertile woman or a circus animal.

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  • Heavy ArcTeryx insulated ski jacket
  • “Thinner” ArcTeryx synthetic puff jacket
  • Helmet
  • Liner under helmet
  • Thick fleece neck gaiter
  • Tank top
  • A not-super-thin merino wool base-layer
  • The North Face smooth outer face/polartech fleece “mid” layer
  • Really really thick fleecy pants
  • Stio ski pants (these are burly)
  • Hip padding
  • Left Sorel snow boot (and two adhesive toe warmers stuck under my foot)
  • Right ski boot
  • Extra battery pack for right ski boot heater
  • Different sock for each foot (some sock manufacturers makes socks that have a handedness to them – no bueno for me :))
  • Heated gloves (yes, it has come to this. These gloves aren’t awesome)
  • Extra pair of battery packs for heated gloves (battery life isn’t super, see above)
  • Belt for attaching quickdraw to my waist
  • Quickdraw (I made a small modification yesterday, which was to just switch out the old quickdraw I was using for a Petzl Spirit quickdraw which has a super stiff dogbone which makes for easier clipping)

Lake Louise, AB

Lake Louise, even though you started off at around -32 degC (with wind-chill) this morning, I still like you. A lot. As usual, I was one of the first people to arrive so that I could score as good a parking spot that did not require any special fees or permit.

There was not much in the way of new snow; just a few cm, which made for hard pack, even in the back bowls. I still find it amusing how signs stating “Marginal Conditions” or “Closed” out West are, like, the best conditions ever on the East Coast. And, sadly, I’m finding that I ski well in such shitty conditions.

I really like how the mountain and vertical drop are big (991 m (3250 ft) vertical drop, longest run of 5 miles, Lake Louise is the largest ski resort in the Canadian Rockies), yet the main base area has an old-school cafeteria/ non-swanky resort feel to it. Indeed, lift-ticket prices here are considerably cheaper than lift tickets in the U.S., and even more so if you take into account the current favourable exchange rate. I wonder why that is. Are operations more efficient here? Are the owners just less into price-gouging than other ski-group goliaths?

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Striking views every where.

I thought the ski area was well laid-out too. I did not encounter any cat-tracks, shitty ski-outs, choke points for accidents to happen at the end of the day when every one is returning to the main base area on a narrow trail, weak on their legs, racing to get to the bottom (I’m looking at you, Sunshine Village).

View around mid-mountain, on the way back to the main base

View around mid-mountain, on the way back to the main base

Yes, it looks like a ski fell off a foot

Yes, it looks like a ski fell off a foot

Can a girl get a break?

Can a girl get a break?

I’m feeling pretty worked but I guess this is good preparation for Revelstoke, which boasts North America’s largest vertical drop of 1,713 metres (5,620 ft). I’m bloody intimidated by this, and by how deep it is going to be and get over the next few days, as I still struggle in deep powder with my ski and outriggers. It seems like I am very good at blocking out the sun wherever I go.

The forecast for Revy.

The forecast for Revy.

It seemed like the temperature rose a good 10 degC the moment I crossed into British Columbia. It was 22 degF when I rolled into Revelstoke, and I was positively sweating.

The drive from Lake Louise to Revelstoke is exactly how I imagined driving into the interior of British Columbia would be: misty and starting to snow. For some reason I thought that the Mountain and Pacific time zones followed the BC and AB province boundary, but they do not, and I liked how there was a sign along the Trans Canada highway indicating the point where the time-zone changed.

I find it interesting that the legislated time-zone boundaries and observed time-zones do not always coincide (Source: http://www.nrc-cnrc.gc.ca/obj/doc/services-services/time-heure/TZ06BWE.png)

I find it interesting that the legislated time-zone boundaries and observed time-zones do not always coincide (Source: http://www.nrc-cnrc.gc.ca/obj/doc/services-services/time-heure/TZ06BWE.png)

How to change from ski to crampons

Petzl put out a useful instructional video on how to change from skis to crampons in tricky terrain/a tricky situation. As I think more about whether it is possible for me to ski mountaineer again, I wonder how will I manage to do this, with a ski boot and ski on my right leg, and a snow boot (Sorel) on my left leg which does not have a ski attached to it. My left leg will be clipped up as usual. What I am thinking is:

  1. Create anchor (ice-screw) as shown in video and secure myself
  2. Release left foot down
  3. Have one crampon be adjusted to fit my Sorel. However, I am not sure this is possible because my Sorel is so wide and big. Assuming this is possible, I balance on my right leg/ski and put on the crampon on my left boot
  4. This is the tricky part. I will then need to put my weight on my left leg and make sure it is secure with crampon points in the snow.
  5. Release right binding. Again, this could be hard because I set my DIN to be very high (8-9) for someone of my stature because I do not want my ski to release and I have to retrieve it (with great difficulty)
  6. Put right crampon on ski boot

Stuff like this makes me wonder whether I should even bother contemplating moving in this kind of terrain again, or whether just sticking to more mellow skiing is just fine. I am really not sure. It might be the case that this idea continues to poke/bug me, and I just have to try/experiment and assess the results.

Ice-climbing in Canmore

The ice-climbing in Canmore/Banff is world-class, and there is just so so much of it in a concentrated area. One reason for me making a stop in Canmore was to continue to get more experience leading on this medium that is relatively new to me (compared to rock). It was pretty incredible to have my first days of the ice-climbing season be in this location.

A typical 9am in Canmore

A typical 9am in Canmore

wet-route

Yeah, it was a wet start to this route.

Here is a picture of me before I got really really cold, and in a rare moment when more than the bridge of my nose was showing. So yes, it’s like a lot of Facebook pictures which are not representative of reality most of the time :)

Who needs a pushup bra when you can stuff a couple of gloves into your chest.

Who needs a pushup bra when you can stuff a couple of gloves into your chest.

Our second day was colder, with the humidity making the perceived temperature be around -20 degC. You know something is wrong when you are so fuckin’ bundled up, you cannot see your climbing harness and the ice-screws sticking out from it.

The first pitch of yesterday's climb

The first pitch of yesterday’s climb. A nice sheltered belay.

You can maybe start to see why Canmore ice-climbing is considered world class, and why the Alpine Club of Canada headquarters are here. So so much waterfall ice here.
Got ice?

Got ice?

However, yesterday’s conditions and my own maladies made it border on one of those “I don’t give a shit if I never ever ice-climb again” times. Considerable snow fall on top of even harder more bulletproof ice made for slow going today. Without getting good sticks in, I felt the insecurity of my left leg even more and felt pretty depressed about it, as big plate after plate of ice would come down and I struggled to get screws into the ice. Ice-climbing, to me, is much more lower-body-centric than rock climbing because of how centered and symmetric you want to be, when moving and when placing a screw in, in tougher conditions. And the low angle stuff is all lower body. I suppose stranger things have happened, but I am pretty sure I will never feel in my element while ice-climbing. Wet, then frozen every thing. But it’s a nice diversion I suppose, I like expanding my knowledge of all kinds of climbing, and being pushed out of your comfort zone is a good thing.  I’m sure I will be stoked on it again some time in the not too distant future, especially if I can climb in more comfortable conditions.

First ski stop – Sunshine Village, AB and travel as a privilege

I decided to check out Sunshine Village in Banff, Alberta the day after my arrival as it is a relatively short drive from Canmore.  I am in awe of the convenience and proximity to so much awesome climbing and skiing (backcountry and resort) there is around here. I had no time (and energy) to do any research on backcountry options, and the avy danger also seemed to be increasing with the cold front moving in with snow and winds, after some ridiculously cold weather (-30 degC last week) followed by warmer weather prior to my arrival. So inbounds it was.

Sunshine Village location

Sunshine Village location

This whole late sunrise thing is definitely still something I am getting used to. I arrived at Sunshine Village around 7.45am, and was one of the first few cars there. It meant that I scored an excellent parking spot which made the walking with my gear easier. I did not see any handicap parking; I think I am going to be skiing in areas where there really isn’t much accommodation for people with disabilities, so I just might have to try and get to places early.

I was on first lifts at 9am and it was still a very dark grey. Visibility was worsened by the very windy and gusty conditions, kicking up snow. A cold front was moving in, bringing in snow (yay) but definitely made for a white-out conditions day. If nothing else, the conditions at Jay Peak, VT can be so shitty that they prepare you well for such conditions. Staying near the trees was definitely the MO for the day, versus featureless bowls.

I have not been around the big international/holiday crowd in awhile…e.g. women wearing tight fitting ski pants and the like, casual skiers who you can tell ski/board a bit, but are really about the apres-ski. I lost them quickly but it still felt a little strange, probably because of my lack of exposure to them. There are also no adaptive skiers around here, so I was getting asked questions all the time about my set up. People asked me in a very polite way, so I didn’t mind giving them a very brief answer, unless they prodded for more information. Skiing alone on one ski is definitely challenging because of the clipping and unclipping of my left leg; it can be quite a balancing act, especially in deep snow if I fall, and I hate having to take my left glove off in cold conditions.

All the Aussie workers here, combined with the Canadians, have made me revert back to this weird Canadian-Aussie-British accent. Fortunately, I have the Aero and Mars bar consumption to back it up. Again, I feel this weird sense of familiarity with these surroundings.

As I was skiing and managing all the logistics that accompany skiing solo with my setup (e.g. negotiating various stairs, dealing with a tricky bubble chair with outriggers, , I was keenly aware that someone with more physical limitations than myself, would have an even more difficult time. Indeed, these “obstacles” could be deal-breakers for other people. As I said in an earlier post, I think there was no other non-fully-able-bodied skier (I don’t know what other term to use) than myself here, and I am not sure how I feel about that. Neat because I’m forging ahead and “breaking new ground”? Sad that some people are excluded from this experience, not just due to physical barriers, but income, socioeconomic status etc. which blows up a whole ‘nother can of worms (is that even a saying?) Acceptance that this is just the way the world is; and even wheels turning to figure out how to change this. As you can tell, there is a great deal of awareness and ambivalence about my athletic passions and pursuits.

I came across this article, which articulates some of these concerns/thoughts, and serves as a reminder that traveling is indeed a privilege. I like this line: “There’s an implication here that people who don’t travel lack a sense of adventure, that they simply need to be braver and venture out into the world. But it’s patronizing – ignorant, even – to imply that this is the only thing keeping people from traveling. It isn’t. ”

 

Reached the Promised Land – Arrival! driving across the continent (Day 3)

Wednesday’s drive started off very windy, slick, and dark. The doesn’t start to rise till around 9am, so the majority of the drive from Minot, North Dakota to the Canadian/U.S. border checkpoint in Portal, ND into Saskatchewan and to the Trans-Canada highway was not relaxing, as freezing rain turned to snow.

Once I hit the Trans-Canada Highway, things got pretty awesome fast. Conditions were now cold enough that the road was fairly dry, and being the main Canadian highway, it was much better maintained than the small provincial road I had been on. I would not want to live there but I really enjoyed the beauty and atmosphere of the Canadian plains. Had I not been on a schedule, I would have pulled off the highway to check out the various dinosaur remains sites.

As I was driving along US Interstates-90 and 80, I liked the reassurance that there was going to be a big rest-stop with gasoline, food, restrooms  etc. quite frequently, especially as I would be likely sleeping at one of them. This is not the case on the Trans Canada highway, but I actually liked this fact. Then again, I was driving the long quiet stretch in broad daylight, in good weather conditions, and not anticipating needing to spend the night along the highway. Despite not having some of these huge rest stops, there are fairly periodic/frequent pull-outs for recycling and rubbish (good, because I eat a lot when I drive to stay away), and some times bathrooms. There was only one point where I was anxious about not knowing when the next gasoline station would be, and very much hoped my mental conversion from the distance on the road signs (in km) to the estimated range shown on my car dashboard (in miles) was correct. Fortunately, it was.

It's a bit hard to tell but it was extremely windy - I didn't feel that welcome.

It’s a bit hard to tell but it was extremely windy – I didn’t feel that welcome.

Saskatchewan winds, I found out, are also something. I was literally blown over as I was filling up my car, and I had never had most of the windshield wiper fluid I was pouring (despite my efforts to orient myself correctly and block the wind), travel horizontally away from my target.

I have to admit I was surprised by how well my car and the cargo box held up to some pretty inhospitable driving conditions (roads and very very high winds across the plains and driving from Calgary to Canmore, actually).

My trusty steed when she was about to start off i.e. she is clean.

My trusty steed when she was about to start off i.e. she is clean.

There was enough setting light for me to see the Canadian Rockies as I drove along the Trans-Canada highway towards Banff; I always forget how my heart and chest swell to the point of hurting when I see the Rockies rise up from the flat lands. It has been a long time since I have been in Canmore, and I was struck by the dramatic drive in to town.

3 days, 2609 miles, and too much junk food and too many McDonalds hashbrowns to count, I arrived at my destination of Canmore, Alberta.

2609 miles later, I arrived at my destination.

2609 miles later, I arrived at my destination.

 

Reached the Promised Land – driving across the continent (Day 2)

Despite getting up very early, making coffee, eating numerous hashbrowns at the McDonalds, and getting a 0530 start on the driving, I managed to get caught in crappy Chicago area traffic. Things got worse around Madison on I-90. I had no idea there could be such bad traffic jams around there, with many long haul trucks lined up. I had to take a lengthy detour on backroads to get around the traffic on I-90, and it cost me a lot of time.

I am not sure whether the day was long and boring because of the location itself, or because it was Day 2, I was tired, I was a little anxious about making it to my goal destination of Portal, ND (the Canadian entry point), and knew I had another day of long driving ahead of me. I had some slight anticipation of driving through Fargo, ND, as popularized by the fantastic Coen brothers film of the same name. It was quite a large town (strip malls etc) compared to the rest of the very large state.

A slightly dirty windshield and iPhone mounted near the dash.

A slightly dirty windshield and iPhone mounted near the dash.

I was somewhat disappointed not to be stopped by Officer Gunderson on my drive through Fargo (you will have to know the film to get that reference). I thought the spacer bars between the electricity lines were pretty neat. It must be because of the huge temperature differences experienced by the place throughout the year.

I have to say though, driving through dark, deserted, North Dakota backroads and small highways, in uncertain conditions (slick, wet, black ice) and uncertainty about when the next gas stop will be, when very tired, ranks alongside least favourite things ever. Being a planner, I played out scenarios of my car running into problems (mechanical or running out of petrol) and what I would do to get help.

I was far too tired to make it to Portal, ND (in retrospect, I am very glad I did not spend the night) and decided to bed down about 1.5 hrs away in Minot, ND, as it was a sizable town with amenities.

The drive took MUCH longer than the estimated Google Maps drive time.

The drive took MUCH longer than the estimated Google Maps drive time.

Despite stopping short of my planned destination, enduring the very tiring and mentally taxing day put me in a good position for Day 3 driving.